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Tuesday, September 6, 2016

And Away We Go

Friday, August 12, 2016.  I am a total flibbertigibbet before a trip! Last night I was up until after midnight doing laundry, packing, cleaning house, and getting completely distracted by the Olympics. I would find myself sitting on the floor, laundry basket in front of me, staring at the TV as Michael Phelps won more gold and the US women’s gymnastic team followed suit. Focus, Sandy, focus! I was pretty happy when I got all my stuff packed into just a backpack and a carry-on. I hope to never check baggage again - it’s gotten far too expensive!

Friday was a normal day at work, except for when I was trapped in my car. I had to clamber over my luggage to get out when lunch break was over. Who knew my car had child locks on the back doors?
Who knew???
 
How did it get switched anyway?! After a quick change of clothes (after which I couldn't touch anything for fear of getting grease on my white pants), I left directly from work for the airport in the pouring rain. On the way, Delta sent a text that my flight from Detroit to Norfolk was delayed 30 minutes. No problem, now I’ll have time for dinner in Detroit. Then, another text. And another. Delays in Moline both times. Earlier this week Delta had their computer system crash and hundreds of flights were delayed or cancelled. They’re likely still recovering from that. I guess that means I should have dinner in Moline instead of Detroit. I swear, the menu should have said “Teeny Weeny Panini” because that thing was really small! An hour late, we were finally on our way. It was raining in Detroit too, but there was a big rainbow welcoming us. Even with the delays, I made my connection with a few minutes to spare.

People are weird. The guy across the aisle carried a bowling ball onto the plane - no case, just the ball. The flight attendant told him to put it into the overhead bin. Seriously? If we hit turbulence, that ball is landing right in my lap! I’m seated next to a priest or reverend or something so maybe that will protect me. He’s studying from a book written in Latin. It has lots of pictures of churches. I peeked over at his to-do list - acolyte candles, toilet paper holder. What?! I was curious!

Despite the delays, we landed almost on time. My dear friends Rick and Christine were waiting to whisk me away to their beach house. It was so good to see them! The temperature was still 85 degrees at 11:00 PM - the forecast is predicting an extremely hot week. The moment I got to the house, I stepped out onto the deck to listen to the ocean. I always forget how loud it is, but ahhhhh I love that sound! After a quick snack, we settled into deck chairs and reclined to watch the Perseid Meteor Shower. The sound of our chatter and the crashing waves accompanied the shooting stars until the wee hours of the morning. Hello, Virginia Beach! It’s good to see you again!


United States | Virginia
Visibility: Good visibility

Best hours to observe:
11:00pm - 04:30am (EST)
Peak: Night of Aug 11 to morning of Aug 12
Best:While Perseids peaks on August 12th, we recommend observing starting August 1st, way before August 17th's full moon, for maximum visibility.
Peak: August 11, 12, 13
Shower rate: 
15-30 per hour
Time Zone: 
UTC/GMT -5:00 hours

72% Full 
Moon Forecast: Waxing Gibbous
Moon phase will be fair for gazing at the Perseids meteor shower. The peak of this shower coincides with the Waxing Gibbous Moon, so the moonlight may interfere with viewing Perseids meteors.

Wednesday, January 13, 2016

Wild Wild West

“Cooking and eating in a foreign country may be the surest, truest way to its soul.” – Travel & Leisure Magazine.

Part of the fun of traveling is sharing your trip with others. Of course, you can show pictures and/or videos, display your souvenirs, and regale unwary persons with your travel stories and adventures. I like to take it one step further and share the culture of a country or region with my family through food. Since I can’t always take my family with me when I travel, on Christmas I like to bring a small part of the world to my family at a themed dinner. You never know what you’re going to eat at my house on Christmas, but rest assured there will be plenty of it! Bring your appetite, your sense of adventure, and some Tupperware for carry-out.

The tradition began 10 years ago, when I was contemplating what to make for a special Christmas dinner for my family. I didn’t want to subject them to yet another ham or turkey dinner, and you know I hate anything ordinary! I had taken a class at WIU to study agriculture in China in 2005, where I enjoyed authentic Chinese food - which is worlds apart from the Chinese food we typically find here in the US. So, one thing led to another, and before I knew it I was planning a Chinese Christmas dinner. A tradition was born, and since that time we have enjoyed holiday dinners from Russia (2006), Costa Rica (2007), the Florida Keys (2008), Australia (2009), Jamaica (2010), Germany (2011), Hogwarts Castle (2012), the fantasy world of Dr. Seuss (2013), and Scotland (2014).

Which bring us to 2015. I started the year with a delightful trip to sunny Arizona, had an amazing time in Jamaica in March, thoroughly enjoyed some long weekends in Petersburg MI, St. Louis MO, Chicago IL, and Pittsburgh PA, and loved every hilarious minute of a wild and woolly western adventure to the buffalo roundup in Custer, SD! So I had a few options to choose from, and finally settled on a theme of “Wild Wild West” to encompass both the Arizona and South Dakota trips.

Appetizer Buffet
I wanted to work with foods indigenous to Arizona and South Dakota that were available to Native Americans and early settlers. This included staples that the emigrants would have carried with them, though I did take some liberties just for fun. This is the final menu:

APPETIZERS:    Pickled Eggs
                             Elk Summer Sausage
                             Assorted Cheeses
                             Sunflower Crackers
                             Cowboy Boot Cheese Ball
                             Candied Walnuts

MAINS:              Buffalo Ravioli
    Venison Fajitas on Indian Fry Bread
    Wild Game Stew

SIDES:               Hominy Casserole
   Fart ‘N Dart Beans
   Southwest Chopped Salad
                           Cornbread w/ Buffalo Berry Jelly and Honey

DESSERT:        Mixed Fruit Cobbler
                           Plum Kuchen
  Buffalo and Cactus Shaped Sugar Cookies
                           Popcorn Balls

BEVERAGES:    Apple Juice
                             Apple Cider
                             Milk
                             Spring Water

If you’re interested in the research that helped me plan the menu, read on. I find the planning phase fascinating, and sometimes have to force myself to stop studying and start cooking!
Homemade Buffalo Ravioli

I began by looking at which edible plants and animals are indigenous to Arizona and South Dakota. For South Dakota, this came partly from a list of plants and animals recorded and described by the Lewis and Clark expedition. Some were new to science; some were previously known species. The list included: Ramps (Wild Onion), Pin Cherry, Prairie Apple, Prickly Pear Cactus, Buffaloberry, Straggly Gooseberry, Wild Ginger, Desert Cottontail, Mule Deer, White-Tailed Deer, Bison, Eastern Cottontail, and Elk. Also native to South Dakota are: Bullfrog, Crabapple, Black Walnut, Indian Celery, Common Chokecherry, Wild Plum, Wild Garlic, Sunflower, Red and Black Raspberry, and Blackberry.

The arid state of Arizona’s indigenous species included Arizona Elk, Jackrabbit, White-tailed Deer, American Wild Carrot, Common Sunflower, Arizona Black Walnut, Jicama, and Prickly Pear Cactus. These are not complete lists of the animals and plants in these states, just the ones that made my short list of potential ingredients.
Cheese and Elk Summer Sausage

The next step was looking at what Native Indians in these areas ate. The plains Indians were nomadic, following the buffalo herds which provided them with their chief source of meat. They supplemented their diet with other game and fish, as well as eggs, honey, nuts, seeds, berries, fruits, greens, and roots gathered by tribal women.

The Southwest appears to be less abundant with food than other parts of the country, but to those who knew where and how to look, the harsh environment supplied a variety of foods. Natives hunted game and foraged for berries, seeds, roots, and cactus. Cacti were an integral part of the diet for those who lived near the Sonoran Desert.

Cornbread, Venison Fajitas, Indian Fry Bread,
& Southwest Chopped  Salad
Many southwestern tribes developed sedentary cultures based on agriculture. Maize (corn) was the dominant crop, and was first cultivated in the Southwest between 5,000 and 10,000 years ago. Corn was eaten in many different ways, including corn-on-the-cob, popcorn, hominy, tortillas and corn bread baked in clay ovens. Other important American Indian crops were beans, squash, sunflowers, potatoes, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, and avocados. Anasazi Beans were one of the crops cultivated by the Anasazi Indians in the four corners area (now Colorado, Utah, Arizona, and New Mexico). Chiles have been essential elements of both food and medicine among indigenous peoples in the Southwest for over 9,000 years, and joined corn, beans, and squash to form the “Big Four” staple crops. The wild sunflower was domesticated by American Indians in present-day Arizona. Some archaeologist suggest that sunflowers may have been domesticated before corn.
Buffalo Ravioli & Game Stew

Frybread became a staple food to the Native Americans in the mid-1800s. According to Navajo tradition, frybread was created using the flour, sugar, salt, and lard that was given to them by the United States government when they were relocated to reservation land that could not support their traditional staples of vegetables and beans. It became common food for many tribes, and can be found at most Pow Wows today.
Candied Walnuts, Pickled Eggs, & Crackers
Finally, I studied the foods brought along by the emigrants during the great westward migration. The 2,000 mile trek was a long battle to conserve the dwindling supplies, supplemented by what they could acquire at trading posts along the way or by hunting. A basic list of provisions for a family of four included 600 pounds of flour, 300 pounds of bacon, 150 pounds of sugar, 100 pounds of cornmeal (into which eggs could be packed for the rough journey), 100 pounds of hardtack, and 20 pounds of saleratus (baking soda). Sacks of dried beans, rice, and dried fruit augmented their diet, and salt, pepper, vinegar, and molasses added seasoning. Additional food like pickles, canned butter, cheese or pickled eggs were occasionally carried. Some families took along milk cows, goats, and chickens (penned in crates tied to the wagons). Milk was churned into butter in buckets suspended from the bottom of the wagon.
Fart 'N Dart Beans, Hominy Casserole

Baking bread was a daily and necessary activity, so flour was a critical item on the emigrants’ list. In order to make breads and cakes rise, they packed saleratus. Hardtack or crackers were eaten at meals when there wasn’t time or fuel for a fire. While not nearly as important as flour as a survival food, everyone carried sugar. Pies, cakes, and jams from fresh berries were frequently made on the trail. Since it was expensive to separate white and brown sugar and remove all the molasses, the sugar the settlers carried was a lumpy, sticky product. The hot sun would melt it back into molasses.

Next to bread, bacon was the food most often eaten – sometimes twice a day. Cornmeal was a desirable commodity to carry because it was easy to cook and did not spoil. Beans played an important role in the diet of early explorers and settlers. They provided protein, and were easy to store, transport, and cook. Cheeses carried by the emigrants were likely a commodity cheddar cheese commonly sold in the grocery stores at the time. If they had made cheese at home, it could vary from a simple soft cheese to an aged European style cheese.

Vast herds of buffalo provided fresh meat for the trip. Wild game was relished as a welcome change in a monotonous diet. Travelers could hunt antelope, buffalo, sage hens, and occasionally elk, bear, deer, ducks, and geese along the trail.
Desserts

So there you have it – a huge list of potential ingredients! Narrowing it down was the hardest part, and I kept adding and subtracting recipes to the menu. The shopping was a breeze – since many of the recipes used ‘staples’, I had a lot of the ingredients in my pantry already. This was old fashioned cooking at its most basic – fresh and from scratch! The food was cooked and served in antique graniteware pans and bowls. Doesn’t everyone have four boxes of them stashed in their basement?!

I really enjoy this Christmas tradition! The kids laugh at me when it’s time to eat, because before we can dig in they must hear about each dish and why I chose it. But the silence that falls as everyone is busy eating, and the groans that follow when everyone is stuffed - priceless!  When even the grandsons request seconds, and ask for carry-outs on certain dishes, I know the meal is a success.

Always drink upstream from the herd, and don’t squat with your spurs on!



Recipe Index:

Pickled Eggs (I made the Cidered Eggs. Remember Timmons in Dances With Wolves?): http://nchfp.uga.edu/how/can_06/pickled_eggs.html

Elk Summer Sausage (From Meatheads in Milan.)

Sunflower Crackers (Organic Sunflower Seed Crackers from Aldi.)

Cheese Ball (My recipe was most like the Nacho Cat Ball, but shaped in a cowboy boot mold.): http://www.buzzfeed.com/emofly/glorious-balls-of-cheese#.xlaqQ3zpL


Buffalo Ravioli (Use ground buffalo instead of ground beef, and double the cheese.): http://myitaliangrandmother.blogspot.com/2010/02/homemade-meat-ravioli.html

Venison Fajitas (I made up my own marinade recipe with honey, brown sugar, Worcestershire sauce, orange juice, salt and pepper. Just cut the venison into strips and marinade a couple hours. Then stir-fry until cooked through. Break open the fry bread and fill with venison. Top with Southwest Chopped Salad and Sour Cream.)

Indian Fry Bread (Made with a mix I purchased in South Dakota. Mmmmm good!)

Wild Game Stew (I used venison, rabbit, and frog instead of chicken, because I wanted to represent what a settler might do if there wasn’t enough of any one meat for a meal.): http://glitterandbruises.com/pennsylvania-dutch-chicken-pot-pie/

Hominy Casserole (Sauté the onions in bacon grease, add ½ pound bacon, cooked and crumbled, and double the cheese.): http://www.food.com/recipe/hominy-casserole-54219

Fart ‘N Dart Beans (I used authentic Anasazi Beans that I brought home from Arizona): http://realhousemoms.com/homemade-baked-beans/

Southwest Chopped Salad (Skip the lettuce and add prickly pear cactus pads and avocados. This was good on top of the fajitas and also as a salad.): http://thecafesucrefarine.com/2014/05/mexican-chopped-salad/

Cornbread (I cheated a little and used Jiffy mixes – I like them better than homemade! The Buffaloberry Jelly came back with me from South Dakota.)

Mixed Berry Cobbler (I used red raspberries, cherries, blackberries, and gooseberries): http://www.bettycrocker.com/recipes/merry-berry-cobbler/b9e2f09d-93d9-4dc1-bbd3-be0c56e1c9fe

Plum Kuchen (The official state dessert of South Dakota.): http://www.myrecipes.com/recipe/plum-kuchen

Buffalo and Cactus shaped Sugar Cookies (Just use your own favorite sugar cookie recipe, and  a glaze that has corn syrup so it remains shiny and dries hard.)


Popcorn Balls (I included this not only because popcorn was eaten by Native Americans but also because my Grandmas would tell of social gatherings back in ‘old times’ where they would pop popcorn as entertainment. This is their recipe.): http://www.food.com/recipe/marys-jello-popcorn-balls-217668
Wild West Christmas Tree

Wednesday, December 2, 2015

Give It The Ol' Side Eye


The places I visit on vacation become part of my soul, and the yearning to return never goes away. I always imagine what it would be like to live in those places, and will even check out real estate listings and employment opportunities there. Apparently I wasn’t the only one of the Crazy Owl tribe to read this article with a longing heart: http://www.nbcnews.com/news/us-news/south-dakota-ghost-town-sale-250-000-n471706?cid=sm_fb
Following is the Facebook exchange the article inspired:
 


Yes, we’d be positively dangerous if we had money! But damn, what fun we’d have!

Thursday, October 8, 2015

It's A Wrap!

Sunday, September 27

At 7:45 AM, the Torpedo is headed for Illinois, soon to resume her identity as the mild-mannered HildeVan. So too will the members of the Crazy Owl Tribe - Thunder Talker, Black Kettle, Bean Gatherer, Li'l Pot, and Seeks Pie - soon reclaim our identities as wives, mothers, significant others, employers, and employees.  We have breakfast eaten and the van loaded in record time. It's much quieter on the drive east than it was going west; there's some chitchat about the trip, but a lot of the conversation centers around the lives we're headed back to.
Mount Rushmore the way Grandma saw it in 1932,
with Jefferson on Washington's right.
I sleep a lot, the extra hours spent typing my blog after the others were asleep finally catching up. The extra effort of journaling is worth it though. I find if I don't get my thoughts and feelings written down right away, my immediate reactions fade quickly. I blog for future generations; I think of how fantastic it would be if my Grandma Belshause had written a journal when she took her trip west back in 1932 and we could read it today, comparing her experiences to ours. Hopefully, my grandchildren and great-grandchildren will read my words someday and feel they know me a little better.

We pass from sunflowers, sorghum, and hay to corn and soybeans; from endless open sky and distant horizons to fields that bang into the sky within shouting distance; from Ponderosa Pines and quaking Aspens to stately Oaks and Maples; from a dusty palette of russet, sand, and olive to the rich verdure of late summer. By the time we stop for a picnic lunch in the windmills' shadows at the Adair, Iowa rest stop, the countryside looks like home.

We're all tired of sitting, tired of the late-season flies that swarm into the van at every stop, where we flail at them like demented marionettes, and just physically tired in general. It's been a full and busy week - we're going to need a vacation to recover from our vacation! When we cross the Mississippi River, it's bittersweet. Though we're happy to be almost home, our adventure is nearly at an end.

Gin's husband Tim is waiting at her house, and laughs at the disheveled bunch that tumbles out of the van. He helps us unload; the pile we amass on the driveway is so large we agree that it's a good thing we never saw it all accumulated in one spot like this or we would never have dreamed it possible to fit it all into the Torpedo. The pile is quickly dispersed into individual cars, and with hugs all around, the Crazy Owl tribe scatters to the four winds.
                                                                                                            •*¨*•.¸¸♥ ¸¸.•*¨*•
Yep, all of this in one mini-van!

If you recall my first blog about this vacation, I described the different parts of a trip. We have now reached the final part - the recap. Part of the fun of a trip is reliving it, reminiscing about the good times, looking at pictures, and telling friends and family all about it. It is also the time where the planners among us ask questions and take notes, so that next time it can be even better. Will there be a next time? You'd better believe it! For those of you who think it might be fun to take a trip like this yourselves, I'll try to answer some questions you might have.

Q: Would I enjoy a girls' trip? A: Absolutely!! That's a no-brainer! Couples' and/or family vacations are great, but a girls' trip is special. There are no men to please, and no kids calling, "Mom! Mom! Mom!" at every turn. If someone wants to stop at a cemetery, you stop, no questions asked. If a quilt or antique shop beckons, the van immediately pulls over. No whining, no bitching, no arguing, no drama! At least, that's how it worked in our group. I figure by the time you're as old as we are, you already know who you can stand for a week or two. The workload is shared, decisions are made quickly and unanimously, and laughter eases any situation.

Q: Are age differences an issue? A: Just the contrary - that only makes it more fun! Having two or more generations together provides new perspectives for all age groups. Trust me, you can learn as much from the youngsters as they can learn from you. And in this busy world we live in, any time you can spend with your children is a gift to be treasured.

Q: How can I afford to travel? A: How can you afford not to?! Travel opens your eyes and gives you broader perspectives; it compels you to try new things and develop skills you may not even know you had; it strengthens old relationships and forges new ones. From a strictly financial standpoint though, inexpensive travel is quite possible. In our case, we stayed in cabins so we spent approximately $120 per person on lodging. Gas and incidentals like firewood, ice, entry fees, and tips for our guides cost about $150 per person. We cooked at the cabin and ate picnic lunches most of the time, so food expenses were $50 per person. Yes, these prices are for the entire week! We ate a couple lunches at restaurants, and paid for our own souvenirs and optional tours, but all in all, we had a blast for very little money!

Q: How much advance planning should I do? A: A lot! For 5 women (all with very strong personalities) to spend a peaceful week together, planning was essential. It was also a necessity to help save money. Early on, Deb planned a rough itinerary and everyone had the opportunity to review it and request changes if desired. Since we all approved the final schedule, no one could bitch about it. My job was the menu. I wanted meals that were easy, tasty, and fast, and I didn't want to waste precious vacation time in grocery stores trying to decide what we were in the mood for. Our cooking options would be a campfire or crock pot - a crock pot because none of us planned to spend a great deal of time sitting around camp waiting for food to cook. Anything that could be prepared ahead of time was, and those ingredients we had previously canned and were on our pantry shelves (i.e. jelly, sauerkraut, beans, tomatoes, pizza sauce) were utilized. As an example, we needed potatoes and bacon for Hot German Potato Salad. Both were cooked in advance and sealed in either a Ziploc or vacuum bag. When it was time to prepare the salad, it took only a matter of minutes to stir up the dressing and toss in the prepared taters and bacon. To sum it up, planning ahead will save you tons of time, aggravation, and money in the long run.

Q: How do you handle shared expenses, like gas? A: Before you leave, everyone puts equal amounts of money into a 'kitty'. Funds are withdrawn as needed, and more added if necessary. Any balance is refunded after the trip. Easy peasy!

I hope you've enjoyed following along with the Crazy Owls on our wild west adventure. You can check out Deb's blog for her perspective - we never read each other's blogs until we write our own so each one reflects our own distinct personalities. You'll be hearing from me again when I save up enough money to get back on the road. Until then, happy trails to you!

Links you might find interesting:

Deb's Blog: http://fromdebsdesk.blogspot.com/

Recipes From The Trip:

Coconut Pecan Cookies: 
http://bakingbetter.com/2012/06/07/coconut-pecan-cookies/
Cranberry Walnut Cookies (substitute walnuts for pecans):
http://www.food.com/recipe/chewy-cranberry-oatmeal-cookies-56744
Monster Cookies:
http://www.cooks.com/recipe/wq46090w/monster-cookies.html
Chocolate Chip Cookies:
https://www.verybestbaking.com/recipes/18476/original-nestle-toll-house-chocolate-chip-cookies/
Crock Pot French Toast (add 1 pint fresh blueberries):
https://thecakeeccentric.wordpress.com/2010/12/05/brunch-crock-pot-french-toast/
Crock Pot Breakfast Scramble:
https://damandalynn.wordpress.com/2012/12/30/crock-pot-breakfast-scramble/
Crock Pot Apple Cinnamon Oatmeal: http://www.theyummylife.com/Slow_Cooker_Apple_Cinnamon_Oatmeal
Crock Pot Jambalaya:
http://www.tasteofhome.com/recipes/forgotten-jambalaya
Hot German Potato Salad:
http://allrecipes.com/recipe/14411/german-potato-salad
Hawaiian Barbecue Beans (delicious with Hawaiian Brats):
http://www.tasteofhome.com/recipes/hawaiian-barbecue-beans
Campfire Pizza (we used pita pockets so these were more like calzones):
http://www.dirtygourmet.com/campfire-flatbread-pizza/
Campfire Brie (we skipped the booze):
http://www.chowhound.com/recipes/boozy-campfire-cheese-10935
Dragon's Breath Salad:
http://www.grouprecipes.com/2976/broccoli-cauliflower-salad.html
Ham & Potato Soup:
   2 cans Cream of Potato Soup
   1 can Cheddar Cheese Soup +
   1 can Cream of Broccoli Soup OR
   2 cans Cheese and Broccoli Soup
   1 16 oz. canned ham, cubed
   1 can potatoes, cubed
   1 can Evaporated Milk
   2 - 4 cans water
Mix together and heat over the fire, or in a crock pot.
This is my own recipe, invented specifically to use all non-perishable foods. If you have some shredded cheddar cheese though, toss it in. I recently discovered that you can buy Velveeta cheese in pouches (the same stuff that is in Velveeta Shells and Cheese). I think it would work great in this recipe.

Thursday, October 1, 2015

Wrongway Feldman

Saturday, September 26

Today we begin our journey home. The first order of business is to get everything packed and loaded. Now, keep in mind that we began the trip with a jam-packed van in addition to a stuffed car-top carrier.We have five ladies and their luggage, bedding, lawn chairs, coolers of food, tubs of food, a chuck box for food prep and service, and a crock pot. We have eaten a lot of the food, but have added a fan, 2 foam sleeping pads, 3 buffalo skulls, 1 buffalo head, an elk antler, and all the souvenirs 5 ladies can accumulate over a week. Plus rocks. Lots of rocks. The folks in the neighboring cabin as well as the campground hosts are wondering if we can get it all home.


But where there's a will, there's a way! We stopped at a hardware store and an automotive store in Custer yesterday and found what we wanted - a cargo net. With Gin on top of the van and the rest of us assisting around the edges, we pile bags on top and lash them down. Harry the buffalo is sitting next to me, with 5 cowboy hats perched jauntily on his head. The skulls are wrapped in the foam pads and tucked into crevices. As we're finishing up, the campground hosts drive by in their golf cart and cheer, "You did it!" Yes we did! Without a single bit of arguing either! At 9:00 sharp, we're on the road.

There's always time for another photo stop. This place is so captivating we can't help pulling over to get one last look at the craggy mountains and vast valleys. We descend out of the park, and onto the rolling short grass prairie.

This land is harsh and unforgiving, but has a wild and rugged beauty. The hills seem to go on forever, hills behind hills behind more hills. It is so desolate, with few trees or landmarks. Just the hills, colored in rust, beige, and sage. The sameness of the landscape makes the few things we see stand out in stark contrast. Stacks of wildly colored beehives that look like Legos. A Sun Dance site, with prayer flags flying wildly in the wind from the Tree of Life. Yucca plants. A tepee. A sign that announces proudly, "Future Home of Pejuta Sapa Drive Thru Coffee Shop." This one makes us laugh. Just who is going to drive through? It seems someone's being wildly optimistic - we haven't seen a car for miles!

The land flattens out, and suddenly drops away into the pastel-striped gorges and pinnacles of the Badlands. Just as suddenly, the pavement ends and turns to gravel. There are road construction signs, but no equipment parked by the road to indicate there is something actually going on. Google insists we are going the right way, so we forge ahead. This is definitely the road less traveled.

Signs indicate we are entering Badlands National Park. Then leaving the park. Then entering the park again. Then leaving the park again. We finally spot a piece of road equipment, but there are plants sprouting on it. Not a good sign. Pushed by a gusty breeze, hundreds of weeds fly across the road like miniature ghostly tumbleweeds. We pull over to take a photo, well actually we just stop in the middle of the road since no one else seems to be using it. As we're standing there, an ancient Lincoln pulls up. We haven't seen a car for miles, and the minute we stop, one pulls up. It's an Indian in a cowboy hat, asking if we need help. No, we insist, we're fine. As he pulls away, he calls, "Sexy bunch!" We laugh nervously and quickly get back to the safety of our car. Shortly, the pavement begins again and a sign tells us we're leaving the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation. Just where the hell are we?!

On the horizon, a sign of civilization appears. It's a ghost town with a gas station. Seriously, a brand new gas station in a deserted town. The town's name is Scenic (which it's really not), and the man at the station tells us it was founded in the 40's when farmers settled here, convinced they could eke out a living by farming. I don't know what they were thinking, because you can clearly see there is only
about 2" of topsoil over solid rock. The population dwindled through the decades, and the town became a ghost town. In 2011, a Filipino church bought the entire town (46 acres and a dozen or so buildings) for unknown reasons. The attendant also answered our questions about all the tires we have seen hanging from fence posts. They  mean 'keep out'; people assume all land out here is public so private landowners write "No Trespassing" on the tires and hang them on their fenceposts. After getting directions to the visitor's center, we are back on the road.

We find the Ben Reifel Visitor Center in the tiny town of Interior, population 94. The map board shows us where we went wrong - we have skirted around the perimeter of the Badlands, but if we follow the loop road from here, we will pass through the scenic heart of the Badlands and end up in Wall. We eat lunch at a nice lodge restaurant nearby. Dawn and I try Indian Tacos; we both enjoy the fry bread so much we buy mixes to make some at home. Now that we're back on track, we begin to see the interior of the Badlands - the canyons and gullies, the spectacular striated mesas and buttes - stretching off into the distance. The temperature has reached 88 degrees, and the sun is beating down from a dazzling blue sky. I wonder why every time I'm in the Badlands it's hotter than the hubs of Hell?

After just a single photo stop, we are suddenly at the park exit. Another wrong turn! So now we have to backtrack on Interstate 90 to Wall, and miss most of the scenic part of the Badlands. Drat! I wanted to do a little hiking and let Dawn experience the surreal terrain up close and personal . This is turning into a day of wrong turns. Note to self: do not rely solely on Google for directions - always have a map as well to double check!

We don't spend a lot of time at Wall Drug because we are mostly shopped out. It feels like we have already seen every South Dakota souvenir ever made. We want to put some miles behind us before dark, so get on the road for some serious driving.

We finally stop at a KOA in Mitchell, South Dakota. It's dark already, but we build a fire and prepare our last supper together - Cheesy Ham & Potato Soup, toasty grilled bread, and melted Brie. I mix up breakfast in the crock pot, and we relax around the fire and recap our incredible adventures. Everyone is missing their kids, and grand-kids, and significant others. It's time to get back to reality.

The moon is brilliant tonight, and shines brightly in our  windows as we drift off to sleep. Goodnight, South Dakota moon!

Wednesday, September 30, 2015

Cut 'em out, Ride 'em in

Friday, September 25

Beep! Beep! Beep! Beep! At 3:30 AM the alarm sounds and five groggy women stagger out of bed, throw on some clothes, and pile into the White Torpedo for the 50th Annual Buffalo Roundup! The gates don't open until 6:15, but we want to get there early to beat the crowd. It's only a short drive to the south gate, so when we arrive there are only 17 cars ahead of us. Like us, they turn off their lights and go back to sleep for a couple hours. When the gates open and everyone turns on their headlights, we see a line of cars stretching behind us as far as we can see. Our strategy paid off! We get a great spot in the parking lot and sprint to the top of the south hill, which we have been told is the best viewing place.

Sunrise
After selecting a likely spot, we stake our claim, spread out the bedding, and settle in for the wait. It's crisp and cool in the pre-dawn hours, and it feels good to snuggle under the sleeping bags and blankets. The roundup doesn't begin for at least another 3 hours, and our original plan is to sleep some more.  But there is so much going on that sleep has become the last thing on our minds. The lure of breakfast reels in Dawn and Tiff, and they return with giant, tasty pancakes and delicious sausages for all. The crowd is excited and cheerful, and soon we are making friends with those around us. Someone dubs us the slumber party for all our blankets, sleeping bags, and pillows.

In the row behind us are the Sage family - two brothers and their sister from Ohio- and we strike up a conversation about farming, traveling, people, and all sorts of topics. Like a lot of folks we've met so far, they seem fascinated by the thought of five women traveling without men. Funny, it doesn't seem strange to us at all - we've always been an independent bunch! As the sun rises, it starts to warm up and we throw off the blankets. Cars continue to roll in, and the crowd get bigger and bigger. There's an amusing exchange between some blonde chick a couple rows back who asks Gin if she would move elsewhere to smoke. Deadpan, Gin simply answers, "No." The blonde gets a stricken expression on her face, and when Gin tells her, "There are 50,000 acres and here I am," she realizes she's met her match and moves away. Of course, everyone cracks up, and the Sage's join in. They're definitely kindred spirits. Am I a bad person for finding this exchange so humorous?
Just waiting!

Cowboys begin to ride by. Dawn and I categorize them as to whether they are in her age range or mine. She gets 45 and under; I get 46 and over. We call 'dibs' on the good-looking ones, and peer at them through binoculars. The sun rises higher and a layer of clothing comes off.

The gates ares supposed to close at 9:15, but we can still see a row of vehicles snaking their way to the North hill. A yelling contest ensues between the north and south hills. They shout, and we shout back. 20,000 people can make quite a bit of noise! The five of us make even more noise when we see Harry drive by - we shout and wave, and when he finds us in the crowd he waves back. It gets hotter and hotter. We shed more layers until we're all barefoot and in tank tops. The morning's mood turns somber when Deb gets word that Vega, her beloved pit bull,  is not doing well and must be put down. It's so difficult to lose a pet, and Vega was such a good dog. Goodbye, pretty girl. :-(
Vega 

It's almost 11:00 when a stir passes through the spectators. Here they come! The herd of buffalo streams down from the hills, chased by yipping cowboys. The crowd goes wild! Hundreds of buffalo moving en masse are a thrilling sight, straight out of the wild wild west. The herd passes directly in front of us, headed for a strip of trees where they are to turn left and cross the road to the holding corral. It all appears to be going according to plan, when about a third of the herd makes a break for it and cuts back in the direction it came from. And disappears. Seriously, hundreds of buffalo vanish before our eyes. They've dropped into a swale between two hills, then reappear just as suddenly. The cowboys race ahead and get them pointed back toward the treeline. By now, the main part of the herd has crossed the road like they're supposed to. But the rebels are milling around in the trees, and once again sprint off across the valley, this time trying a different direction.

Many of the spectators are leaving; we can see a steady stream of cars leaving the north hill. But this is getting good! The escaped herd is racing up a slope, cowboys in hot pursuit.  It's amazing to watch - the buffalo are running at full speed and not only are they extremely fast but can turn on a dime as well. While they sprint one way, confused pronghorn are bounding in the opposite direction where a fence blocks their escape route. Will they jump? No! They do a tight about-face and beat a hasty retreat. Harry was right! Meanwhile at the top of the hill, the cowboys finally get the lead cow to stop. They let the buffalo mill about until they calm a little, then bring them down. This time they're successful, and the herd crosses the road to join the rest.

Wow! That was simply awesome! The branding and sorting doesn't take place until 1:00, so we have time for a picnic lunch by the van while we wait. People stop by and chat, usually asking where our menfolk are. Roundup veterans tell us this is the best one ever. Although the buffalo came into the valley slower than normal, they usually go into the corral without any trouble. This year's escapees made it much more exciting. We agree - those people who left early missed a great spectacle! After lunch, we take a shuttle bus to the corrals for the next phase of the roundup.

The herd is resting in a large holding corral. At one end, chutes and smaller pens are ready for the sorting. We take a seat on bleachers with the holding pens behind us.The fences are reinforced with highway guardrails. These animals are strong! A group of about two dozen buffalo are driven into the holding pen, but there is a big bull in among them and he has to be removed. Bulls are too mean and unpredictable to handle, so are for the most part left on the range. Some do get mixed in with the cows and calves, so must be sorted off. A small tractor with a metal grate on the front is used to push some of the animals - including the bull - back out. The larger group moves into the next corral with the encouragement of an ingenious winged gate on the front of a tractor. A group of about eight run into a small pen, and the fun begins.

Each of the buffalo must enter a narrow passageway; a gate is closed behind each one until it it his or her turn in the chute. This does not go well. They are strong, mad, and not used to being confined. Numerous attempts are made to drive some buffalo through the gate, but they keep milling and circling back. The little flags flapping in their faces are completely ineffective; so are the sticks used to pop them on the backside. Finally the cattle prods come out. That gets their attention! Finally a few are confined, but that makes them even madder. They kick and thrash and leap, the metal gates banging and crashing with the buffalo's fury, dust flying. Farm girls all, we are enjoying the rodeo.

We change position to sit on the fence where we can see the head gate and keep an eye out for Kevin Costner. The chute used for buffalo is pneumatic, with a closed box in front. The animal enters, the sides squeeze in, the neck is closed into the head gate, and the box is raised so the head is now accessible and the vet can work. Most of the animals are sent right back out onto the range after their ear tags are recorded and a pregnancy check done. Some are driven into holding pens and will be sold at the fall auction, since the range can only support around 1,500 buffalo. This year's calves, which have been diverted to different chute, are branded, vaccinated and wormed before being let loose to rejoin the herd. They don't stick around, that's for sure. Once turned out, they flee the area quickly.

Although the day has turned hot, we hang around and watch for a long time. It is fascinating to watch these wild animals up close, and see how strong and fast they are. If this were football, working cattle would be like high school, but working buffalo would be like the NFL!

Sunburnt, dusty, and exhausted, we return to Blue Bell. We never did see Kevin Costner! Although it is only 4:00, our bodies tell us it is much later. Gin starts a fire, and we take a short walk into the hills around camp. Just a few steps from the cabins, the land belongs to the wildlife. Buffalo and deer trails lead off in all directions; there is plenty of fresh poop. Evidence of an old forest fire are evident, as are some of the pyramids of logs and brush Harry told us were firebreaks, cut by the Forest Service and stacked by the inmates from Rapid City to light if needed to stop a forest fire. It's so peaceful and quiet here. Our state and national parks are treasures; places where generations to come can witness nature in its original state. I'm so lucky to be here!

Dinner is sausage and pepperoni calzones cooked over the fire. Although it is a gorgeous night, no one can keep their eyes open after the excitement of the day and the early wake-up call. We planned to organize a little for packing the van in the morning, but no one has the energy. By 8:30, we're all in bed with dreams of cowboys, Indians, and wild buffalo running through our heads. Goodnight, Custer State Park employees and volunteers. What a great day you've given us!

Tuesday, September 29, 2015

Crazy Owl & Crazy Horse

Thursday, September 24

We wake to another glorious day. The sun is shining in a sapphire sky, and the temperature is headed toward 75. After a piping hot breakfast - a scramble of eggs, sausage, potatoes, and cheese in the crock pot - we pack our coolers for lunch and head out for the Buffalo Roundup Arts Festival.

The grandeur of the yesterday's buffalo safari is still on everyone's mind, so we listen to the 'Dances With Wolves' soundtrack as we drive. Discussion is all about the buffalo, South Dakota, the west, and our passion for these topics. We couldn't have assembled a better group for this western adventure. It speaks to our souls, and touches us on a primal level somehow. Growing up with John Wayne, Louis L'Amour, the Cartwrights, and Tell Sacket as our heroes, we have imprinted on that lifestyle like a baby animal imprints on its mother.

We've seen a lot of wildlife here in Custer: buffalo, pronghorn, mule and whitetail deer, turkeys, prairie dogs, mustangs, rabbits, and ground squirrels; this morning we add another to our list - a Bighorn Sheep is grazing by the side of the road. We are also starting to see more people here in the park since the roundup takes place tomorrow. I guess we don't have the park all to ourselves any more!

The Arts Festival is just getting underway when we arrive. It is held in a meadow full of buffalo chips - this is obviously a favorite grazing area for them when it's not filled with EZ-Ups and tents. Artisans and craftsmen display their wares, many with Native American or western themes. Strolling through the booths, I pick up a pair of buffalo tooth earrings. Everyone shops at different rates, so we split off into smaller groups. Like most arts and craft shows, there is a mix of the exquisite and the mundane. Deb and I make our rounds, contemplating some potential purchases, and take a seat in the main tent to wait for rest of our group.
Art Festival Purchases

A text comes in from Dawn, "We are checking to see if the Torpedo has a hitch. Gin found a buffalo head!" What?! We assemble under the tent and discuss the possilities. No, the Torpedo (the HildeVan's alter ego) doesn't have a hitch, but somehow, we'll get it home. Before we leave the vendor's booth, not only do we have to make room for a mounted buffalo head, but we also have to fit in 3 buffalo skulls and an elk horn! Maybe this is one of the reasons we're the Crazy Owl tribe!

After all the shopping drama, we relax and watch a presentation about Black Hills raptors. The most exciting bird is the Ferruginous Hawk. These hawks are from the open prairie where trees are scarce, which means they build nests on the ground so are susceptible to predators. Therefore, they have evolved a survival strategy of attack first and ask questions later. Known as one of the most aggressive and dangerous raptors in the world, they have been known to knock cowboys off their horses by attacking from behind with their  powerful talons. Ferruginous Hawks are the badasses of the raptor world!

After winning blue ribbons in the Buffalo Chip Flip (yes, that is exactly what it sounds like!), we eat a picnic lunch before loading our buffalo head and skulls into the Torpedo and heading back to Blue Bell. Everyone crashes into bed for a power nap. It's not a long one, because we need to make dinner before our nighttime activities. Tonight we have time for a campfire meal - Hawaiian brats and beans. Why does everything taste so much better when it's cooked and eaten outdoors?

Dusk finds us at Crazy Horse Monument. None of us had any idea that it consists of much more than a carving on a mountain. The complex contains an Indian Museum, an Indian University and Medical Training Center, and a Native American Cultural Center. The beautiful museum houses a vast array of Native American artifacts, arts, and crafts.  A short film telling the story of the monument leaves us in awe of the power of one man's dedication. Korczak Ziolkowski
began carving the mountain single-handedly, a sculpture destined to be the largest in the world. Although it will be years before it is finished, the Indian people will have a lasting memorial that tells the world their message: "We would like the white man to know that the red man has great heroes, too." After dark, a laser light show plays onto the surface of the carved mountain, bringing the story of Crazy Horse and Ziolkowski to life. The finale, a laser outline of the finished piece overlying over the existing carving, is stunning.

Back at Blue Bell, we hurriedly pack a cooler for the roundup tomorrow and lay out our clothes. A weary bunch tumbles into beds, with alarms set for 3:30 am. Crazy Owl tribe says goodnight!