Sept. 11, 2011. Day 2 in Germany is winding down. It was a very full, eventful day! I had to figure out the covers situation last night (you sleep beneath a comforter instead of a sheet plus a comforter) and then I had to keep sticking random body parts out from underneath because I would get too hot. But I was totally exhausted and slept like I was dead. That is, until Deb decided to get up at 3 AM and blog and the light and typing noises were keeping me awake so I had to get up and find earplugs and an eye mask to get back to sleep! Good grief, doesn't anyone I sleep with stay asleep the whole night?! (Yes, Randy I'm referring to you!) Eventually Deb went back to bed and Christine woke us for breakfast at 9. She had prepared a traditional German breakfast with cut fruit (apples, melons and bananas), sliced lunch meats and cheeses, yogurt, wheat bread and butter, and hot tea. We ate outdoors with Herman on the deck with the sun shining and church bells chiming the hour.
When Stefan finally woke up (he had stayed at the wedding reception until 6 AM) we all hopped in the car to go to Kelheim. This is the town where Christine has her orthodontic practice, and it is a beautifully preserved old city with towers and gates dating to the Middle Ages on the banks of the Danube River. We boarded a large tour boat and cruised upstream through the Danube Gorge. The unusual rock formations along the banks of the river were spectacular, and it was fun to watch the locals out for a day relaxing on the river. They were swimming, kayaking, boating, floating and sunbathing on this gorgeous sunny day. The boat took us to the Monastery of Weltenburg, the oldest Benedictine Abbey in Bavaria. Founded in 620 AD, it has a beautiful Baroque church built between 1716 and 1751, and its own brewery. Weltenburg Abbey brewery is the oldest abbey brewery in the world. It has been brewing beer since 1050. Of course they also have a biergarten, which we now realize are simply everywhere here! On the boat back to Kelheim, we had a good view of a Franciscan hermitage from the 15th century (the sign said they have a biergarten too) and the high-water mark from the 100-year flood in 1999 which was clearly visible where the stone formations are almost white from the rushing water. We had a nice ice cream treat on the boat called a Cherry Lady, which had cherries on the bottom and chocolate chip ice cream on top, with whipped cream and a cookie. Yum! High above the town we could see the circular Liberation Hall, built from 1842 - 1863 to commemorate Bavaria's liberat
ion from Napoleon and currently being renovated.
After our cruise, we drove to a town called Abensberg which is in an area used for the intensive farming of asparagus due to the optimal soil condition and climate. They also have a brewery (surprise!) and they have a unique tower and that is what we came to see. It is a fantastical, colorful, whimsical, Dr. Seussical type structure that was commissioned by the brewery owner and designed by an architect named Friedensreich Hundertwasser. It took many years to convince the town to allow this unique building which was considered an eyesore in their historical village. It is now a busy tourist attraction, and we sat in the ubiquitous biergarten and enjoyed this fun cartoonish tower. I kept thinking of James and how he likes towers - he would have been in tower heaven! I loved this silly building and decided how dangerous I would be if I had money - I would be putting one up in my backyard and adorning it with Dale Chihuly sculptures and scaring the hell out the neighbors. Oh geez, who am I kidding? If I had money I wouldn't have any neighbors - I would have my own island and it would be covered with crazy, weird stuff!
When Stefan finally woke up (he had stayed at the wedding reception until 6 AM) we all hopped in the car to go to Kelheim. This is the town where Christine has her orthodontic practice, and it is a beautifully preserved old city with towers and gates dating to the Middle Ages on the banks of the Danube River. We boarded a large tour boat and cruised upstream through the Danube Gorge. The unusual rock formations along the banks of the river were spectacular, and it was fun to watch the locals out for a day relaxing on the river. They were swimming, kayaking, boating, floating and sunbathing on this gorgeous sunny day. The boat took us to the Monastery of Weltenburg, the oldest Benedictine Abbey in Bavaria. Founded in 620 AD, it has a beautiful Baroque church built between 1716 and 1751, and its own brewery. Weltenburg Abbey brewery is the oldest abbey brewery in the world. It has been brewing beer since 1050. Of course they also have a biergarten, which we now realize are simply everywhere here! On the boat back to Kelheim, we had a good view of a Franciscan hermitage from the 15th century (the sign said they have a biergarten too) and the high-water mark from the 100-year flood in 1999 which was clearly visible where the stone formations are almost white from the rushing water. We had a nice ice cream treat on the boat called a Cherry Lady, which had cherries on the bottom and chocolate chip ice cream on top, with whipped cream and a cookie. Yum! High above the town we could see the circular Liberation Hall, built from 1842 - 1863 to commemorate Bavaria's liberat
ion from Napoleon and currently being renovated.After our cruise, we drove to a town called Abensberg which is in an area used for the intensive farming of asparagus due to the optimal soil condition and climate. They also have a brewery (surprise!) and they have a unique tower and that is what we came to see. It is a fantastical, colorful, whimsical, Dr. Seussical type structure that was commissioned by the brewery owner and designed by an architect named Friedensreich Hundertwasser. It took many years to convince the town to allow this unique building which was considered an eyesore in their historical village. It is now a busy tourist attraction, and we sat in the ubiquitous biergarten and enjoyed this fun cartoonish tower. I kept thinking of James and how he likes towers - he would have been in tower heaven! I loved this silly building and decided how dangerous I would be if I had money - I would be putting one up in my backyard and adorning it with Dale Chihuly sculptures and scaring the hell out the neighbors. Oh geez, who am I kidding? If I had money I wouldn't have any neighbors - I would have my own island and it would be covered with crazy, weird stuff!
On to Eining, and another world entirely.We traveled from a magical, futuristic tower to ancient ruins from Roman times. Above the Danube, the Romans had built this outpost to defend their outer borders 2,000 years ago. The footings of the buildings, from barracks to baths to store rooms, are still there. They have recently been cleared of brush and trees and had signage added to explain what you are viewing. We were the only visitors there, and it was so quiet and peaceful (except for the voracious mosquitoes!) that we lingered quite awhile. It was incredible to imagine what had occurred on that spot so many centuries ago, and that we could be standing on the very footprints of Roman soldiers. Awesome!
While on the road, we passed some hops fields. This area is famous for its hops, and we wanted to see them growing up close. Stefan and Christine indulged us and slammed on the brakes, and after we took some pictures we got a bonus because the farmer pulled up to start harvesting! They hop vines grow climbing up wires, and the harvester cuts the vines, wires and all, and the whole plant falls into a wagon. It was a short, fun stop to see this crucial part of German beer making.
Next stop - the Danube again at Eining. There is a ferry there that moves across the river on a cable powered only by the river current. For 1 euro you can take yourself and your bike across, and for 2 euros you can take your car. It only holds one car at a time though. We sat in the biergarten (yes, they have one too!) and
had some baked trout, potato salad, pretzels and cheese. And beer - I had a Kuchlbauer dark beer from the brewery where the funky tower is. The beer here is very good. If you grew up with this stuff you would never let a Budweiser, much less a Busch Lite, pass through your lips!I was a little dozy on the ride back to Regensburg, but this was the last day of the fair in town and Deb and I were determined to see a little of it. We leapt out of the car at Stephan and Christine's and walked to the fair. It was 9:00 and they closed at 10:00, so we power shopped at the little market stalls. I got a couple souvenirs for the family, but I won't say who and ruin the surprise! A thunderstorm was blowing in, and as the wind freshened and the lightning flashed we shared a long skinny sausage on a roll and raced for home. We didn't quite make it, and got home wet but happy from the exciting day. A hot shower, and some journaling, ended this day for me. I hoped to get some photos uploaded but that may have to wait for another day. Tonight, sleep calls!
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