Germany Day 16

Sept. 25, 2011. My last day in Germany had a decidedly different tone than the rest of the trip. This day was for education, for reflection, and for paying respects to Holocaust victims. Today we visited Dachau concentration camp.

We arrived by train at the city of Dachau, and planned to take the bus to the memorial site. However, it was full and could only hold part of our group. If the rest of our group had waited for the next bus, we would have been late for our scheduled tour. So Jens and some volunteers elected to walk, which would take approximately 1/2 hour. We set out briskly, watching for signs, asking directions, and checking our watches often. We had to keep moving fast in order to arrive on time, and we made the 2-mile walk in just under 30 minutes. The rest of our group was waiting with a young lady named Antje who would be our guide, and she began to tell us the story of Dachau Concentration Camp.

The first thing we learned was that those of us who had walked were treading in the very footsteps of the prisoners. Like us, they arrived in the city of Dachau by train and had to walk to the camp. Today, it is known as the "Path of Remembrance" and very few visitors arrive on foot as the prisoners did, and as we did. Anjte said this gave us a small insight into what the prisoners felt as they marched to this place. I felt tears threaten for the first time, and it would not be the last time this day. The jokes made last night about our 'death march' suddenly seemed in poor taste; we would not use that term again to describe the minor discomfort we felt from walking too long.

The camp's history is well-known and documented, so if you are interested in facts and figures do a Google search and it is all there. I will tell you what I saw and felt and experienced, but nothing I can say will begin to properly describe the emotions I felt or do justice to those who lived and died here. No one who enters those gates will leave without being changed in some way.

Dachau was chosen as the site for a concentration camp because there was an old abandoned WWI munitions factory outside the city which provided ample room and some buildings ready for occupation. Dachau was just a normal German city in 1933, but the name would later become synonymous for the concentration camp, a fact the citizens have had to deal with for decades. It took many years for the city to acknowledge the camp with signposts and story boards along the Path of Remembrance; everyone wanted to forget it had existed. It has been a long, difficult journey for Germans in general, and an even more difficult one for those who lived in the shadow of a concentration camp. Their pain is our pain as well, for how many of us have looked the other way when a wrong was being done? Would we - could we - have done anything differently? There will always be more questions than answers about this horrible time.

To walk through the iron gate with the ironic sign that states, "Arbeit Macht Frie" or "Work Will Make You Free" is a sobering experience. All prisoners passed through this gate, and you could somehow feel their sorrow and fear. The vast grounds spread out before me, and for the second time I choked back tears as I saw the frightening, desolate area where so many spent their last days. The long barracks buildings were on the left; the maintenance building to the right was where cooking, laundry and other work were done. Between stretched an immense gravel field called the roll call area. It was here, morning and evening, that prisoners had to stand for roll call so that the prison guards could take count of the healthy, the sick, and the dead. Prisoners were often forced to stand for hours in the cold winds and pouring rain if a SS officer decided it was necessary. My throat constricted and my chest tightened as I looked at that field, imagining those thousands of human beings standing at attention and having to ignore those that fell or face certain death themselves. That field haunted me; I can still see it in my mind and when I think of the camp this is the image I see.

The concentration camp had a prison, as if being there weren't bad enough to begin with. Prisoners were tortured, and punishments and executions conducted in the courtyard next to the prison. Cells line both sides of this enormously long building, and though they are all alike - a small concrete room with a thick wooden door - I couldn't help peering through the bars into cell after cell. It was a terrible place where I could almost feel the prisoners' fear, and it was with relief that I stepped out of the building and into the sunshine.

We passed guard towers and a section of perimeter fencing to visit the most horrifying place of all - the crematorium. The brick building with a large, square chimney had rooms for disrobing, a gas chamber, incinerator room and execution site, and 2 rooms where the bodies were stored prior to cremation. This is place of unimaginable terror, and I found it hard to wrap my mind around what had occurred there. It felt surreal, like something from a bad horror movie. This, however was all too real.

I fear today's journal is turning out to be much longer than I originally thought it would. Dachau was an emotional experience, and it seems disrespectful to jot a few lines and be done with it. There will likely be a lot more added at a later date, but I wanted to get these first impressions down while they are still fresh in my memory.

We watched a documentary after our walking tour, and you could have heard a pin drop in the theater. Graphic movies and images captured by the American army upon entering Dachau portrayed some of the atrocities that had occurred, and I don't believe there was a dry eye in the house. History became real before our very eyes today, and it was a sobering experience.

The only picture I will post is of the memorial sculpture; it somehow feels disrespectful to post anything else here. The bronze sculpture was dedicated in 1968, and looks like strands of barbed wire on which skeletons are hanging with their heads dangling. On either side of the sculpture are concrete fence posts which resemble the ones actually used to support the barbed wire fence around the camp. The hands of the skeletons resemble the barbs on a barbed wire fence. It is a fitting monument for all to remember what occurred on this spot. Dachau International Memorial Sculpture

We ate dinner together on this last night as a group. Two weeks ago we barely knew each other; today we have become friends. We discussed our reunion meeting, where we will exchange photos and enjoy each others' company once again. Jens and Judy brought together a diverse group of individuals and shared some of their favorite places with us. Now they are our favorite places too, and maybe someday we can come back and share these wonderful places with our friends and family. Thank you, Jens and Judy, for the memories!

Germany Day 15

Sept. 24, 2011. I just left Oktoberfest and am still a little dazed and confused - total sensory overload on every level! It was followed by the Bataan Death March. I guess I am going to have to explain.

We left Salzburg this morning for the 1-1/2 hour drive to Munich. We knew it would take a little longer since we had to avoid the Austrian Autobahn on the first leg of the journey. We're on the lam from the Austrian police, you remember, due to running the toll booth when we entered the country. So instead of pedal-to-the-metal on the highway, we meandered through the bucolic setting of Bavarian farms and towns. We had misty mountains to our left, rushing streams with picturesque waterfalls, and tidy alpine farms and villages with their ubiquitous cascading flower boxes to keep us entertained while we searched for a German Autobahn entrance. Success at last, then we were actually on our way, well...except for a quick bathroom break. We finally arrived at our hotel 3 hours after leaving Salzburg.

The hotel is not within the city limits of Munich, so the next leg of our trip was by shuttle to the train station. There is only one van, so it took 3 trips to get all 18 of us there. The train was full of workers and/or partygoers headed for Oktoberfest in their festival garb of lederhosen and dirndls. We got off at the city center to meet Toni, a friend of Jens' who was kind enough to show us around Munich a bit. The city was really crowded for a number of reasons: it was Satuday, there was a soccer game, and Oktoberfest. There were entertainers and vendors and thousands of people rushing here and there and we had to watch carefully to keep our group together.

Like so many of the places we've been, Munich is an ancient city, originally settled around 1150 by an order of Benedectine monks. Much of the architecture we were seeing, Toni explained, was much newer, dating only as far back as the 1800s. More of the city was even newer than that, having been lost to bombs during WWII. However, some old buildings remained and Toni took us to St Michael's, a Jesuit church built in the 1500s with incredible Baroque architecture. The facade is under restoration, and has a false front of canvas or plastic printed with the actual design beneath. St. Micheal's

We stepped inside another magnificent church, Frauenkirche, an immense cathedral with two towers that reach 358 feet above the city! This church dates to 1468 and can hold approximately 20,000 people; Catholic Mass is held regularly. The new town hall, well, relatively new as it was built in the late 1800s, has 400 rooms and amazing Gothic architecture. The best part was all the gargoyles leering from the parapets! The building is so ornate I am at a loss for words to describe it. It boggles the mind! Gargoyles!

After sight-seeing, we stopped for dessert and to rest our weary feet from trudging over the stony streets. Once we had fortified ourselves with something sweet, it was back on the train to the next stop - Oktoberfest!

The world's most famous beer party.The largest party in the world. It was so big, so over-the-top that I think I can best describe it as a montage of images. A state fair on steroids. Carnival rides. Souvenir stands. Neon lights. Food. More food. Sausages and fries and brats and sandwiches and pretzels and sugared nuts and cookies and pork and chicken and beef and veal and weiners. Beer, More beer, Even more beer! People eating. People drinking. People falling. People vomiting. People holding hands. People walking, stumbling, running, fighting, hugging, laughing, pushing and singing. Walking on garbage. Kicking broken bottles. Running into people. Eating. Shopping. Walking. More walking. Lederhosen, short, medium and long. Gingham shirts. Wool socks, ankle length, knee length or around the calf with no foot part at all. A rainbow of dirndls and aprons. Silly hats. People, people and more people!!! What an experience! Oktoberfest!

Then the Bataan Death March. Ok maybe it's an exageration, but finding the train station meant even more walking for already exhausted Americans and someone made the comparison and...well, it somehow felt apt at the moment! Trudge, trudge, trudge. Would we ever find it? Trudge, trudge, trudge. Ask someone! Trudge, trudge, trudge. Can we take a pimped up pedicab? They were quite unique - everyone had decorated his with his own personal style: flashing lights, flowers, astroturf, fur, boom boxes. Trudge, trudge, trudge. Finally! Train, 3 shuttle runs, home! Did I say exhausted? Good night!

Germany Day 14

Sept. 23, 2011. What a contrast a day makes! Yesterday, the bustling city of Salzburg; today, pristine lakes and majestic mountains! Today we took a day trip back to Germany - crossing borders here is no different than crossing state lines back home. Our route took us through Anif (the town Deb and I visited yesterday) and along a turquoise-hued river that I still don't know the name of. The unusual color comes from sediment from the limestone mountains in this area. On one curve of the river, someone had built numerous stacks of rock that I call 'inuksuk' since that is what they are called in Canada and Alaska by the Inuits.

Our destination was Königssee, a lake located in the Berchtesgaden National Park in extreme southeast Bavaria. Königssee is a glacial lake and is Germany's third deepest lake (averaging 150 meters or 492 feet) with water so clear we were told it was safe to drink. The lake is surrounded by steeply rising mountains on either side, and we boarded a boat for a ride to St. Bartholomä, a famous pilgrimage church and inn on a peninsula about halfway down the western lake shore. The scenery surrounding us was spectacular! At one point, the sheer rock walls create an echo, which is known for its clarity. We were treated to the quaint tradition of our captain playing the trumpet so we could hear the echo. Fun!

St. Bartholomä is a Catholic church named for Saint Bartholomew, patron saint of alpine farmers and dairymen. It can only be reached by boat or after a long hike across the surrounding mountains. The first church was built here in 1134; in 1697 it was been rebuilt in a Baroque style with two onion domes and a red domed roof. The fragrant scent of smoke wafted to our noses from the fish smoking building where you can purchase smoked fish appropriately packaged to take home. We strolled on the shore of the lake, the water cold but not frigid. How do I know? Well, I walked out into it for a photo op on a fallen stump! The beauty of the towering mountains wreathed in clouds above us was breath-taking, and was our backdrop for lunch. Many hikers passed through while we were dining - serious hikers with walking poles and backpacks. They take their hiking seriously here! Königssee Lake

This a protected environment for plants and animals; even the boats have been battery powered since 1909 to preserve the cleanliness and silence of the lake. I love the silence and grandeur of nature, and really enjoyed this break from bustling cities and towns. Apparently, much of our group does too since we voted to stay in the area for the rest of the afternoon instead of immediately returning to Salzburg. The nearby Jenner ski area is located next to Königssee lake, and we elected to ride the Jennerbahn cable car up the mountain to see the view from the top.

I am so glad we did! The valley spread out below us as we ascended; the tinkling of many cow bells announced the location of the herds grazing in the steep meadows beneath our feet. I was complete enraptured by the sight and sound of cows halfway up a mountain - what a special treat for this Midwestern farm girl! As we climbed higher and higher, small patches of snow appeared in shaded areas. Would we be able to make a snowball? We would see once we arrived at the top station at 1874 meters (6148 feet)!

The weather today was excellent once again - sunny and warm. Even at this elevation, the sun was warm enough that I didn't need a jacket. An arrow pointing upward next to a gravel trail caught my eye and Deb, Joan and I decided to see if we could make it to the peak. 15 minutes, the sign said. We didn't make it in 15 minutes since we had to stop often for photos (translation: breathe) but we did make it! So did Gordy and Sheila and Courtney. From the peak, we could see boats on the lake where we had been just a few hours earlier, and spectacular vistas of mountains and valleys as far as we could see. There were indeed a few small snow patches, but they were out of reach behind the safety fence. It is still hard to believe I was at the summit of one of the Alps - and don't burst my bubble telling me how easy this peak is! I will continue to think it was an amazing feat!

At the top!

It was a much easier walk down to the restaurant at the lift station, where we joined the rest of the group for dessert. I had Millirahmstrudel (milk cream strudel) with vanilla ice cream. It had a custardy filling in the strudel pastry and was delicious! With full tummies, we boarded the gondolas for the ride down. The wind currents must have been perfect at this time of day, because paragliders were floating down all around us, bright spots of color against the perfectly clear blue sky. We were serenaded by cowbells once again as we passed by the herds, sending us on our way with this uniquely alpine sound ringing in our ears. Paragliders

Back at the hotel, everyone went their separate ways. After working on our photos and journals for awhile, Deb and I headed out for a late dinner. We ran into about half of our group at the Italian restaurant next door, and had a nice dinner and lively conversation to complete our day. Now we must pack for the drive to Munich tomorrow! Guten Nacht!

Germany Day 13

Sept. 22, 2011. I wish I had a pedometer to know just how many miles I had walked today! My feet ache and my knee is stiff and I am totally exhausted...I think I'd better stop complaining - after all, I am on vacation in the beautiful city of Salzburg! How bad can it be?

A brilliantly colored tour bus pulled up at our hotel at 9:15 AM, and the painting of Julie Andrews and the Von Trapp children on the side made it obvious that this was our ride for The Sound of Music Tour. A perky young lady with braids in a native costume of white blouse, long blue overdress and red apron beckoned us over and gave us a cheery greeting. Her name was Naomi, and she was about to make our day both informative and fun!

The weather was excellent once again, in fact Naomi asked if we had brought this wonderful weather with us. It seems they had just had a pretty cold streak, which is typical at this time of year. The sun was shining, the temperature wasn't even cool enough to need a jacket, and though there was some haze it soon burned off. Another perfect day! Naomi

The 1965 musical "The Sound of Music" won five Academy Awards including Best Picture and is one of the most popular musicals ever produced. Today we were surrounded by the city, the music and the mountains that made this film so memorable. What is your favorite scene? We likely saw the location where it was filmed. The lake scene where Maria and the children fall in the water? That was our first stop! The scene where the Baroness breaks up with Captain Von Trapp? Right beyond the lake. The gazebo scene where Liesl and Rolfe share a kiss? I have a picture standing next to it!

At Wolfgang Lake; some movie scenes were shot nearby

As the bus took us to each new location, Naomi pointed out landmarks from the movie plus told some history of the city as we passed. The soundtrack played over the bus' speakers, and Naomi had us happily singing along. From Nonnberg Abbey, where Maria was a postulant, to the majestic 17th century St. Michael's Basilika in Mondsee where the Captain and Maria were married; from the mountain lakes and meadows where Maria sang the film's title song to the Mirabell Gardens where she taught the children "Do Re Mi"; from the tree-lined avenue where Maria built up her confidence to approach the Captain's house to the mountains the family climbed to escape Hitler into Switzerland; we saw it all! Interesting side notes about filming were also shared: Christopher Plummer ran up an immense bar tab. The bored children switched all the shoes (left in the hall for polishing) in their hotel from one floor to another on a lark. The water was so cold when the boat tipped that the children refused to do more than two takes. Too soon we were singing, "So Long, Farewell" and leaving Naomi to explore more of the city on our own.

Everyone went their seperate ways to explore, shop, eat or rest. Deb and I took an elevator inside the mountain to the Museum of Modern Art. not to see the museum but to see Salzburg from a high vantage point. The panoramic vista of the city was breathtaking, and we opted for lunch at the museum cafe in order to prolong our time overlooking the city. Side note: the museum was probably very interesting - some of the displays and posters gave hints of very unusual and off-beat exhibits. The Last Supper with thugs was particularly intriguing. Maybe another time! Salzburg

After checking in with Jens and Judy to let them know we were off on another adventure, Deb and I hailed a taxi for Anif, a neighboring suburb. We had some specific shopping in mind that could not be found in Salzburg so headed out of the city. Success! We found exactly what we were looking for and hopped on the city bus to come back to Salzburg. By the way, had you ever heard of the Jello Shoe Store. No? Me neither, until today!

After meeting back up with our group, some of us headed for the old part of the city for their Oktoberfest. Beer tents, food vendors, entertainers, kids' rides and craftspeople filled the square. Hundreds of people, many in traditional costume, were enjoying the fair. We heard Oom-Pah bands, saw musical whip cracking (no, I can't explain it any better than that), and took advantage of fair food at its finest. No corn dogs were to be seen, but we had giant sweet pretzels and something called Langos, which were like ham and cheese wrapped in dough, deep fried and sprinkled with garlic salt. Yum! Calories? Don't vacation calories fall off when you get on the plane for home? I think I heard that somewhere.....yes, I'm sure I did! ;-p Big pretzel!

The night wasn't quite over yet. As we walked back to the vans, fireworks exploded from the castle high above the city, Seriously? Is this a dream or something? Perfect weather. The Alps. Alpine lakes. Castles. Centuries of history. Oktoberfest. And now fireworks. If it's a dream, please don't wake me! Guten Nacht, mein Freunde!

Germany Day 12

Sept. 21, 2011. Today we drove all day to reach Salzburg, Austria. Being trapped in a van the whole day is going to make for a pretty boring journal, I fear! We were packed, had breakfast and were ready to leave Villingen at 9 AM. The sun was shining and it looked like the clouds that had been lingering for the last couple days were gone for good. I forgot to mention yesterday I bought two miniature Fastnacht masks at a gift shop before I had dinner last night. (Since the real ones are SO expensive that I couldn't afford one!) I am not sure, but it seems that each city has their own special charcters for Fastnacht since there were a variety of masks with different city names etched on the bottoms. I chose the male and female characters from Villingen, since it is the city where I stayed for 3 days. I guess it just means I will have to visit other cities so I can get their masks too!

We drove east along the same route we took yesterday to Meersburg. The vineyards go on as far as the eye can see and some are covered with netting, but not all. We could only surmise that once they reach a certain stage of ripeness they must be covered to protect them from the birds. Like raccoons with sweet corn, they likely know exactly when the fruit is perfect to eat! In addition to grapes, this is a huge apple growing region. The trees are very small, but loaded with fruit. I can't figure out how they don't collapse under their own weight!

After lunch, we began to see the Alps off in the distance. As the day progressed, the scenery got more and more beautiful. Fruit country passed into cattle country. Alpine homes and barns dotted the green, grassy hills and valleys and dairy cattle - some with brass bells around their necks - were grazing on the lush pastures. I spotted a couple houses where the barns are attached like in the old days. One was L-shaped, with the long arm of the L the barn and the short arm the house. Others were very long, with the home on the end facing the road. We passed a lot of tractors going about their daily business. Bavarian cows!

We stopped for lunch in Fuessen at a restaurant with a view of Neuschwanstein Castle, the 19th-century Romanesque palace that was the inspiration for the Disneyland and Disney World castles. We were not planning to visit this particular castle, since it is such a tourist trap that you are herded through like cattle. I think we have seen much more 'authentic' castles on this trip! But it was a great backdrop for our buffet lunch of pumpkin soup, salad, veal with spinach, and apple strudel. After lunch Deb and I took a short walk and happened upon an old farmer repairing his goat's fence. His Bavarian outfit of knickers with long socks, suspenders, and hat with a jaunty feather was apparently his normal attire. What an interesting place we are in!

Bavarian farmer

After the winding, twisting roads we had been on most of the day, the Autobahn was a welcome relief since everyone was ready to get to Salzburg. When we crossed the border, we somehow missed paying the toll. I think there may be a ticket in the mail for Jens and Judy later! Traffic was busy in the city, but we found our hotel (with a few detours) and unpacked. Dinner was at a beer hall a few blocks away, and the Kasknocken (cheese dumplings) I ordered was suspiciously similar to kasespatzel. That was fine with me, since I never met a pasta I didn't like! A short walk took us back to the hotel, and another day has come to an end. And even though we are now in Austria, my journal will continue to be titled "Germany" so none of us get confused! Guten abend!

Neuschwanstein Castle - notice the shirt!

Germany Day 11

Sept. 20, 2011. I'm having a really hard time making myself concentrate enough to write tonight. I just want to listen to music and eat junk food and play games on the computer! I think it's because this is the first night we have had free before dark in forever and it is soooooo relaxing! I know I'm lame - most people on vacation would probably be out on the town hitting all the biergartens, but aren't you supposed to relax on vacation? Just a little? I think I deserve it!

The first book I'm going to read when I get home is The Walking Drum by Louis L'Amour. It is a historical novel set in 12th century Europe in which the main character takes a dangerous journey from city to city looking for his father. I've read it before, but now I feel I can better understand it: the marching merchant caravan, the sword fights on the battlefields in full armor, the inns and castles, the food, drinks, medicine and clothing, the daily way of life. This was a time that existed only in storybooks for me, but now it feels real - very real - and I can't wait to read more about it!

It's the castles that are bringing The Middle Ages to life. We saw another today in yet another charming medieval city, Meersburg, Alte Burg, the oldest inhabited castle in Germany, stands on a rocky outcropping on the northern shore of Lake Constance; Switzerland is visible on the opposite side. The view over the city and across the lake was magnificent! View of Switzerland over Lake Constance from Merrsburg Castle wall

Parts of the castle date from the 7th century and as is typical of castles, later additions have been made with very different styles. The rooms have been furnished with items authentic to the time period, and it was easy to imagine how the inhabitants lived. Some of the highlights I enjoyed were a cooking area with the first garbage disposal - a slot behind the kitchen sink where refuse was pushed into the moat, a deep well dug all the way down to the surface of Lake Constance so the castle had a ready supply of water during sieges, and a tunnel dug beneath the castle that allowed access outside for supplies if the castle was surrounded by enemies.

Knight's dining room

Other memorable sights were a vaulted chamber where knights gathered at a long table for meals, a room full of armor and weapons, and a prison inside the old tower where prisoners were lowered by rope to serve out their sentences. They also had some more of those shiny tile stoves I find so irresistible! However romantic is seems, though, those people had to be tough as nails. Cold stone, open gaps for windows, and open fires for cooking every meal made for a rough life. I'm glad I have modern amenities!

We had lunch at the castle restaurant. Their specialties was Pfannkuchen, basically a pancake with different fillings. I ordered zwiebel und speck, which means onions and cheese; Deb ordered apfel und speck (apples and bacon). Although we thought it would be kind of like pizza, it was really more like a thick crepe batter. Deb thought hers was underdone. It was a little doughy but I never met anything with bacon I couldn't eat! We shopped a little after lunch, and I fell in love with a shop called Chapeau. It had clothing and hats; I totally adored all the clothes! Cute tops, adorable jackets, funky jewelry, sassy shoes - it's a good thing I'm poor or I would have spent like a drunken sailor! The cheapest thing was 89 euros so it was completely out of my budget. Damn!

The Meersburg vineyards on the northern banks of Lake Constance are famous within Germany. We saw field after field of grapevines, heavy with luscious, ripe fruit. This area is lower than Villingen, and out of the Black Forest, so the climate is warmer which allows grapes to flourish. We had just enough time after leaving the castle for a quick stop at Basilika Birnau along Lake Constance. OMG! This pink Baroque church (yes, pink!) is so ornate and gilded and frescoed and gaudy that you could sit at mass every Sunday for a year and find new things to look at every time. Vineyards slope downward from the church to the lake below. What a beautiful sight!

Basilika Birnau

We arrived back at the hotel by 4:00 and had the rest of the evening free. Deb left to try to find a manicurist and I headed off in search of the cemetery. What?! Don't you always check out the cemeteries when you're in another country? You know you're curious! Anyway, after about 15 minutes of walking, I found it in the shadow of an old church. I searched in vain for the "old section". Apparently, plots are rented for a certain period of time, usually 20 to 30 years, with the possibility of an extension. Eventually, though, the plot will be used for another burial, once the mourners themselves have passed away. (What the heck do they do with the remains then for Pete's sakes?) I saw a few older ones here and there, but on the whole the burials were only a couple decades old. The graves were well-tended, with lots of permanent plantings of flowers and bushes, fresh cut flowers, memorabilia and lit candles. Who lights these things every day? Or do they last for a few days? Inquiring minds want to know! I took lots of pics, hoping I wasn't doing anything disrespectful that some little old German lady was going to yell at me for. It was an interesting side trip that I'm glad I had time for!

Headstone, Villingen cemetery

All Deb and I wanted to do for the rest of the evening was eat dinner and crash at the hotel. We chose a restaurant in the center of town with a few outdoor tables and no English on the menu. We're feeling pretty brave by now and don't even need English subtitles! The menu had a short history of the building - in German, of couse - and I think it said it dates back to 1514. How cool is that?! The sun was setting behind a beautiful church with colorful mosaic tiles on the steeple roof and every other building surrounding us was from a much earlier time. One of the nightly specials was Rinderhacksteak mit gebratenen zwiebeln, grillsosse, pommes und salat. We think we have this all figured out! I knew rind was beef, hack must mean chopped (hack, get it?), steak is steak, gebratenen - well, who cares?, zwiebel we already know are onions because Deb bought some Funyuns last night which are called Zwiebel Rings, grill sosse must be grill sauce of course, pommes are potatoes and salat is salad. It turns out it is Salisbury Steak with grilled onions and french fries, and green salad. Not bad! The church bells serenaded us every 15 minutes while we dined al fresco in this ancient city. Awesome!

My productivity once we arrived back at the room has been...sketchy. Earlier the people in the room above us were doing it - you could hear the bedsprings bouncing up and down. I ate a Snickers bar and listened to my MP3 player. Deb keeps finding ways to distract me so she doesn't have to blog. My feet still hurt. I want to play on Facebook. I am almost to the end of this day's journal though! So, until tomorrow - Guten abend!

Germany Day 10

Sept. 19, 2011. Good grief I was just attacked by the shower! It is one of those shower heads attached to a hose, and I laid it across the faucets so I could turn on the water without it splashing outside the doors when it came on. (The shower is teensy, and last night that's what happened.) So when I turned on the water, there was so much water pressure it leapt off the faucets and landed upside-down on the floor spraying out the doors! I slammed them shut, but water was still escaping beneath the door. The only thing to do was open the door and grab the stupid thing as it sprayed me, the floor, the wall, the toilet....get the picture? Once I grabbed hold, it was like a runaway fire hose, careening around the stall and continuing to spray the entire bathroom until I was able to get in and slam the door shut! By then I was laughing so hard I could barely stand, and I'm still giggling about it. I just want my bathtub!

The day began with a lot less excitement! I had a breakfast of soft-boiled eggs, cold cuts, cheese, and bread at the hotel, then walked to St. Francis Monastery to meet our guide Lisa. She is a delightful lady with a wicked sense of humor and a refreshing habit of telling the blatant truth. She was born in Villingen, married and moved to Alaska, and is now back in Villingen but holds American citizenship. She is very proud of her city, and had many interesting stories to tell about its history.

Villingen is a city founded in 999 AD. It was a walled city, surrounded by two walls with a moat between. (I would love to have a moat!) It was a prosperous city, and the walls protected the inhabitants and their property from less-prosperous neighbors. Four gated towers - east, south, west and north - allowed access during the day, but were closed at night. Three of the towers and much of the inner wall still exist. The south tower was dismantled in 1884 to appease disgruntled citizens who lived outside the wall to the south, and felt left out by the rest of their city due to the wall between. The city has been able to withstand many sieges during its history due to its walls, its excellent fresh water supply and its ability to have enough supplies to wait out the invaders. During WWII, more gates were opened in the wall to allow citizens quick access to the bomb shelters beyond the wall.

We toured some of Villingen's most historical buildings - St. Francis Monastery, Benedectine Church, and the Munster Cathedral. St. Francis Monastery was originally built in the 11th - 12th century. Throughout its long lifetime, it has played many roles from barn to barracks to refugee housing to its current use, a concert hall. The building has amazing acoustics, and has hosted many symphonies and choirs, including the Vienna Boy's Choir. The Benedectine Church is the proud owner of a Silbermann Organ, rebuilt after the original was destroyed in WWII. Munster Cathedral is a breath-taking example of Gothic architecture, completed in the 13th century. Some damage was sustained during the war but has been repaired however, Lisa has never forgiven the loss of the bells, confiscated for ammunition for the war. She felt it was sacrilegious to use church bells for such a purpose. I agree!

Other highlights from our tour included some of the 27 fountains in the city, St. Ursula Convent which is now a public school, the lookout's tower who waited for the mail and had food and horses ready (like the pony express!) and the statue of Graf Berthold who founded the city in 999. We had a nice discussion in front of the fountain with a statue of Naroo the fool and his essential part of the Fastnacht carnival and parade. Some free time for lunch followed, but I had such a big breakfast food didn't even sound good. Deb and I browsed the shops until it was time to pile in the vans for the next leg of our tour.

A short distance outside of town is an old artesian spring marked by a carved wooden dragon, Dragon Spring. People still come to fill their water bottles here, even though the water has not officially been tested for safety. We had a short look, a quick drink and an even shorter ride to a Medieval castle ruins. It required a short uphill hike, but the sun had peeked from behind the clouds and it was an enjoyable walk. Kirneck Castle was built in 1185 not for defense but to collect tolls in the valley. Most of it was torn down in the 1800s and the stone used for roads, but a small corner is left and I enjoyed this little remnant of times gone by.

We were not done walking yet! Our next stop was Triberg, where the Gutach river plunges from the plains into this valley creating the highest waterfall in Germany. The rain that had been threatening all day finally began, but it was more of a heavy drizzle so we didn't let it stop us from climbing to the top of the falls. We rested a few times on the way up, which took about 30 minutes. Well, we weren't really resting - we were taking advantage of photo opportunities! And it was a very photogenic climb - the view and the cascading water were simply beautiful!

In Triberg, at the bottom of the falls, the deep valley forms a basin just wide enough for a small town. Triberg has the largest collection of Black Forest-related souvenirs (including cuckoo clocks) and wood products for sale anywhere, and is a very popular tourist destination. I did my part for the local economy, buying a few souvenirs for friends and family back home. One shop had a wonderful display of hand-carved Fastnacht masks, which I wanted in the worst way but couldn't afford at the prices that were as frightening as the masks - 300 to 500 euros apiece! It had stopped raining but turned cold enough to see your breath by the time we were ready to leave.

Back to Villingen, but wait! Not yet! We stopped at Germany's version of Wal-Mart, Kaufland. They have everything, including a tiny Halloween section. We bought snacks and essentials, then stopped for dinner at a restaurant on the outskirts of Villingen. Exhausted, we arrived back at the hotel just before 10 PM. Then I had my traumatic experience with the shower, and had to eat one of my Snickers before I could type up this journal! ;-) Now that I'm beyond exhausted, it's time to get some rest. Guten abend, no that's not right anymore because it's after midnight! Guten morgen!

Germany Day 9

Sept. 18, 2011. This morning we all left our host families to drive to Villingen. The Kuglers and the Haspels and I shared our last breakfast together. :-( Birgit claims we are sisters; it was a misty, moisty morning and she said the world was sad that I had to leave. I think she may be right! We all hugged and waved and hugged some more as we loaded luggage and climbed into the vans for our next adventure. I know we will see each other again someday - whether in Germany or the US I can't predict - and we will share more good times together.

The route we followed to Villingen was not the most direct route; there were some sights we would have missed by taking the Autobahn so we drove a much more circuitous route through the Black Forest. My plans to catch up on some much-needed sleep were foiled by the twisting switchback roads - there is simply no way to fall asleep when you are being tossed back and forth like a rag doll! The benefit of the detour, however, was the magnificent scenery we were treated to. Stately pines covered the mountainsides; bright green ferns blanketed their feet and swirling fogs hugged their branches. Quaint farmsteads and villages dotted the valleys with spots of bright colors on this dreary day.

Our first stop was Freudenstadt where we intended to visit a unique church shaped like an L. Men and women attended services in the opposite sections in times past; the pulpit was at the intersection of the two wings. It was Sunday, however, and touring the church was not allowed when Mass was in session. Plan B: eat something! Everyone went to a bakery and most ordered sweet pastries and coffee. I don't know how anyone could eat so soon after breakfast - I certainly couldn't! Our drive continued through forest that reminded me of the Colorado Rockies, although not nearly as tall and rocky. Crystal clear streams rushed through the valleys, bounding over the rocks in their paths. We passed through some looooooooooong tunnels and my ears popped many times. I enjoyed seeing cattle, sheep and goats around the tiny farmyards and grazing on the hillsides and in the valleys. Some of the cows had alpine bells around their necks like you see in the movies. It was quite picturesque!

Shortly after noon we arrived at an open air museum in the valley of the Gutach River. Historical buildings from various regions of the Black Forest were disassembled and reassembled here on the Vogtsbauernhof farmstead to paint a picture of the work, lifestyles and traditions of former times. Farmhouses, barns and outbuildings dating from 1599 to 1870 were filled with furnishings, tools and personal items; gardens and livestock made this a living museum as well. I quickly decided I wasn't wasting time on lunch since there was so much to see! The homes with livestock on the bottom floors and the living quarters above fascinated me - it seemed like a really practical solution and I could totally picture myself living like that back in those days. I want one of those green tile wood burning stoves. I laughed over the jeweled wedding crowns, gaudy monstrosities embellished with beads, baubles, ribbons, mirrors like a jewelry tree gone awry. (Ok fine, a jewelry tree is a Christmas decoration gone awry but I love them anyway!) And the red bobbled hats for unmarried women were so cute I had to buy one! I wore it the rest of day, prompting odd looks, chuckles and unrestrained laughter. Just think of the looks I will get back in the States where they are not part of the native folk costume!

The two allotted hours passed far too quickly, and I missed some of the outbuildings, including the Bahofen (witch oven) darn it! I had packed a lunch at the Kugler's this morning and ate my sandwich, carrots and cake once we got back in the van. (Thanks, Bernhard and Birgit!) Next stop: Villingen. We cruised around awhile to look at Jens and Judy's favorite places from the days they lived in this city. After checking into our hotel, we walked around the city to find a place to eat dinner. Not much was open, so Deb and I and the Miller's ate Italian food. Back at the hotel, the Internet wasn't working so Courtney, Deb and I went in search of an Internet cafe. Wrong turns, bad directions and unmarked street made it a challenge, but we finally located one in a rather sketchy part of town (yes, I know!) and were able to let everyone at home know we had arrived. Safely enconsed in our cosy hotel room, The past three days are catching up with me now and I must sleep. Guten abend!

Germany Day 8

Sept. 17, 2011. I cannot believe I have been here 8 days already - and I have another 8 to go! It is going to be a huge slap in the face to go back to work after so many days of relaxation. Reality is not going to be pleasant...but I'll play Scarlett O'Hara and think about it another time! Tonight is the last night with my host family, the Kuglers. I have really enjoyed my time with them, and it is going to be hard to say goodbye tomorrow.

After breakfast with Birgit, Alexia and Martin, Birgit dropped me off in Rottenburg for a free morning. Since it was Saturday, the marketplace was filled with vendors of breads, cheeses, flowers, fruits, vegetables, eggs and meats. It was somewhat like the Farmer's Market in Davenport. Crowds of people were doing their weekend shopping, and lots of children were running here and there. I looked in the shops, browsed the market and decided to spend some more time at the ancient Roman museum, Sumelocenna. We had spent a short time here yesterday, but I wanted to look at the exhibits more thoroughly. It turns out there was a film in English, and it was a fascinating look at the ancient Roman settlement in this area. No, I won't bore you with details so if you want them you are just going to have to ask for the long version.

By the time I headed back to town square, the vendors were packing their goods to leave. It was almost time to meet the rest of the group at the bus station for our short ride to Hechingen, so I bought a piece of cheesecake for lunch and walked to the station. Follow the signs vs. use the GPS was the dilemna of the afternoon; the signs finally won out and we soon had our first view of Burg Hohenzollern silhouetted against the cloudy sky. It was a magnificent sight with its turrets and towers, and the roiling clouds made it look like a forbidding sentinel against all who dared climb the hill.

Hohenzollern Castle is considered the ancestral seat of the Hohenzollern family, which emerged in the Middle Ages and eventually became German Emperors. A first castle was built here in the 11th century and destroyed in 1423; a second castle was rebuilt three decades later and again demolished in the 18th century; the third version of the castle, which stands today, was constructed for Frederick William IV of Prussia between 1846 and 1867 in the English Neo-Gothic style. The castle was damaged in an earthquake on September 3, 1978 and was under repair until the mid-1990s. It was never used for defense as medieval castles were, and is still privately owned. There was a falconry show taking place in the courtyard, and we enjoyed the afternoon touring the public parts of the castle and looking over the walls at the magnificent view.

Back in Wendlesheim, Birgit and I enjoyed a brief visit with her parents in her childhood home drinking fresh grape juice from their own grapes and talking about family and travels and other interesting German and American topics. When we got back home, it was time to make dinner. On the menu was Rindrolladen, spatzle and green beans, all made from scratch. It was a fun learning experience as Bernhard and Birgit showed me the finer points of rolling the beef just right and cutting the spatzle into the boiling water properly. Bernhard is much better at spatzle than either Birgit or me, but we finally got it accomplished. While the meat cooked, I was treated to an impromptu concert with Bernhard playing piano and both Alexia and Martin singing a song or two. They have beautiful voices - what a talented family they are! Birgit then surprised me with a Swabian cookbook written in both German and English and a spatzle press! I don't even know how to say thank you enough for all they have done for me!

We were joined for dinner by Gabriele and Leonie, and later Ingo when he returned from the soccer match. He drove 600 kilometers today in a remarkably short time thanks to a fast car and the Autobahn! Dinner was delicious, made even better by the great company. Too soon it was time for bed, but not before Birgit mixed up a sweet bread for breakfast! This is a delightful family, and I am going to remember this visit forever! Guten abend!

Germany Day 7

Sept. 16, 2011. If this ends quickly, I apologize in advance! It is after midnight and I have had a few drinks and am really tired. This has been another very full day - another week of this may kill me!

The day began with breakfast with Bernhard, since Birgit had to teach and Alexia and Martin had school. We then drove to the Rude family's house, also in Wendelsheim, so I could ride with Gordy and Sheila and their hostess to Rottenberg. Bernhard had to go to work - he teaches singing to boys for a choir. We met in front of a Gothic fountain and St. Martin Cathedral in the town square. Our guide met, Herman I think (ok, I know I suck with names!) to show us the sights of the city. I have a a ton of notes, but they are downstairs and I don't want to disturb anyone so this is all going to have to be from memory! Lucky you - you are going to get the short version without all the historical details that I find so fascinating!

In addition to St. Martin Cathedral, a recently restored church that is the seat of the Catholic bishop, we visited the the Sülchgau Museum, specializing in Roman influences on the area almost 2,000 years ago. These Roman ruins were found when excavation was being done for a parking garage, and one of its most interesting exhibits is a group toilet, where Roman men and women met to do their business and socialize (men on one side; women on another - hey, they weren't savages!). We walked to a 17th century dungeon and hangman's house, and actually got to go inside the prison cells! Crossing the bridge over the Neckar River, we visited St. Moritz church, a Neo-Gothic Catholic church where they had removed all the bodies from beneath the floor. Dang - that's always the best part of visiting these old churches to know there are dead bodies under you! After our official tour, we strolled back to the city plaza to have lunch and visit a few shops.

Jens and Judy picked us up at the bus station to drive to Tuebingen for a relaxing ride in poled boats on the Neckar River. The boatmen were seminary students, and for an hour we just floated along this tiny river enjoying nature. Oh I have to add before I forget: Tuebingen has the most bad-ass flower boxes and baskets I have ever seen! They are on the bridge, the lamp posts and the homes. It is a glorious sight, and I will have some on my south facing windows next year for sure! The Umbrisch-Provenzalischer Markt is in town this weekend, and we spent some time checking out the booths from Italy and France with their wares of wines, cheeses, breads, honey and jams, cookies, crafts and food of every kind. It was a busy place, and I wanted to spend far more time there than

We met a former Coal Valley resident currently living in Germany (Kelly Parrish) and strolled through town along a different route. Tuebingen is a university city, and students have been studying here since 1477. OMG we didn't even have a settlement in our country at that time! After our walk, we had dinner at the train station. Yes, the train station! They have good restaurants there, and a bakery and florist among we had.other shops. I had breaded baked Feta cheese and salad, bread and beer (just one - beer, not bread. I ate far too much of that!). Just as I finished dinner, Birgit came to pick me up. We intended to visit her parents, but on the way there we got sidetracked and decided to visit a tiny chapel on top of a high hill that is very famous but I don't know the name of so it will have to wait. Anyway, you cannot drive there and the walk is very steep. The 14 stations of the cross (if 14 is not the right number don't bitch at me because you know my religious education is spotty) are represented along the path, and stopping to look at the displays and the vineyards and the sheep and the view are all good reasons to rest a little and get your breath back. Once you arrive at the top, the view of all the surrounding towns is worth the walk! You can see the Black Forest in the distance, and a castle that we will visit tomorrow. The little chapel has a tiny cemetery, which is the first I have seen here. I am glad we decided to suffer a little to go up that hill!

It was too late to visit Birgit's parents, so we went back home to get ready for her brother and sister-in-law and niece to come over. We had Aperol Sprizz again, and bread, cheese, sliced meats and grapes. Birgit had gone to the international market in Tuebingen and brought home several cheeses: truffle cheese, parmesan cheese, goat cheese with honey, a runny, stinky cheese I was afraid to try and several others. We had Chianti, and two kinds of brandy, and visited and laughed and had a lovely time. Soon it was midnight and time to end my day. Ciao until tomorrow!

Germany Day 6

Sept. 15, 2011. Our days are so busy it's hard to remember where I am. I asked a couple times today, "What city are we in?" and when I try to tell someone where I've been I sometimes can't remember what happened yesterday or where I was when it happened! It's a good thing I am writing this down as I go or I don't think I would ever be able to keep it straight!

Only four of us shared a room in this hostel, so it was a little less chaotic getting ready this morning. I haven't minded at all sharing a room with such nice ladies - it really helps us get to know each other a little better. Breakfast was provided by the hostel once again, and was the usual German fare with the addition of scrambled eggs. I slept so late (7:15) I had to rush to get packed and have breakfast in time to leave for our day in Heidelberg. Half of our group travelled to Mannheim to tour the John Deere factory; the rest of us drove a short distance to downtown Heidelberg on the Necker for a day touring the city. We had some difficulty finding a parking spot - the roads are very narrow and the van is so big - but Judy got a spot in bus parking and we made our way to the tourist center. Our guide, Klaus, met us there and for the next 3 hours showed us the beautiful city of Heidelberg.

Heidelberg lies on the Neckar River in a steep valley, and is a popular tourist destination for its picturesque location and sights such as Heidelberg Castle and the baroque style Old Town. The biggest employer is Heidelburg University, and much of the city's income comes from tourism. Since Heidelberg is one of the warmest regions of Germany, some plants atypical to the central-European climate flourish there, including almond and fig trees. We saw palm trees, and Klaus told us on one slope of the mountain there is a micro-climate where banana trees grow. Last night we were fascinated by some green birds in the trees at the hostel; we assumed they were escapees from the zoo next door. It turns out there is a wild population of African rose-ringed parakeets that survive here because of the warm climate!

A short walk and tram ride took us up to Heidelberger Schloss (Heidelberg Castle), a famous ruin that is among the most important Renaissance structures north of the Alps. Originally built around 1,214 AD, the structure went through waves of destruction, expansion and rebuilding throughout the centuries. In 1537, a lightning-bolt destroyed part of the castle; expansions were done in the 1600s; another lightning bolt destroyed some rebuilt sections in 1764. We heard of the marriage of Fredrick V to Elizabeth Stuart of England in 1612 and of the extensive renovations he made to the castle to please his bride. The different styles of architecture are very apparent to even an untrained eye like mine, and the newer sections were often built atop the ruins of an earlier construction. It was a facinating structure with an outstanding view of the city below, and Klaus was a great guide with a fun story about everything from lion fighting in the moat to drunken dwarfs to illicit affairs!

We then toured a little of the city: the Church of the Holy Spirit (Heiliggeistkirche), a late Gothic church, Church of the Holy Spirit with vendorsMain Street (Hauptstrasse), a mile-long pedestrian street with many vendors and shops, and the old stone bridge, erected in 1786-1788. We ate lunch in the marketplace (potatato pancakes and applesauce), listened to the Glockenspiel at noon, and shopped at the vendors and Kathe Wohlfahrt Christmas store. The old city is very beautiful and picturesque, and it was hard to leave because there was more to see around every corner.

Our drive on the Autobahn was longer than planned; traffic was terrible and it was stop and go at times. Yes, even the Autobahn has traffic jams! We finally arrived at Rottenberg and were quickly shuttled to our home stays. I am with a family in Wendelsheim: Bernhard and Birgit Kugler and their children Martin and Alexia. They are so excited to have an American with them and we had a lovely supper of bruschetta, salad, potato salad and something like ravioli that I cannot pronounce and am going to have to have them write down for me because it was so good. Dessert was raspberries, meringue cookies and whipped cream and were were joined for drinks by Birgit's brother and wife. We are planning to cook a meal together of rindrolladen and spatzle in a couple days! It was a full, exciting day and I am ready for bed. Auf wiedersehen!