Yellowstone or Bust! Day 5

Wednesday, June 26, 2013. We didn’t have to pack everything up when we left this morning. Since we are staying in the same cabin another day, all we had to do was load up what we would need for lunch and get on the road. That doesn’t sound very exciting, but after being in a new place each day it’s a relief to stay put – even if it is just for one day.

Dan treated us all to a hearty mountain man breakfast at a restaurant in Gardiner. It was a nice break from the cold cereal and yogurt we’ve been eating every morning. We made a quick stop at the market for ice, and headed back to Yellowstone. (Gardiner is just outside the park.) At the north entrance, the road passes through an enormous stone archway, the Roosevelt Arch. This is the first major entrance for Yellowstone and was designed for horse-drawn coaches to travel through on their way into the park. President Theodore Roosevelt placed the cornerstone for the arch in 1903. Our group stood in the center of the road beneath the Roosevelt Arch for a photo, which turned into a hilarious choreography of setting the timer on the camera, getting into position while dodging traffic, and Dane racing to join us after tripping the camera. (Gin tried to but couldn’t run fast enough to join us before the camera took the picture!) Laughter is a great way to start the day!

Our first stop was Mammoth Hot Springs. A combination of active and extinct hot springs have built large travertine terraces and mounds. These terraces are like living sculptures, and change constantly. Colors on active springs are caused by algae and bacteria that flourish in the hot water, and are a beautiful contrast to the brilliant white of new travertine deposits. We strolled the boardwalks, enjoying the unusual formations and flowing water. It was surprising to see sections of paved walkways torn up and blocked off to visitors due to hot spring activity overtaking the trail. It was disturbing to see the callous disregard some park visitors show for staying on the designated paths. One of our group (not mentioning any names) yelled at some of these outlaws to get back on the trails. I pretended I didn’t know Ranger Nazi.

While leaving Mammoth Hot Springs, someone spotted a cemetery. An old cemetery! I had to see that! Tim slammed on the brakes and turned around. The Fort Yellowstone Army Cemetery is located adjacent to the present-day horse stables. This tiny graveyard was the site of 57 or 58 burials, from 1888 to 1957.  They are U.S. Army soldiers, civilian employees of the U.S. Army, and members of their families. The cemetery is overgrown and surrounded by a strong elk and bison-proof fence. Deb and I were the only ones interested, so we scaled the fence and looked around. The old stones are mostly marble, but one was just a thin plank inscribed with the barely legible name “Frank Welch” and a date of 1916. I took quite a few photos of tombstones, including one of a 14-month old boy who died in 1893 that has a little lamb on the top. Deb and my conversation: Deb, “I want my photo taken by one of the stones because I’m a sexton.” Me, “I want mine taken by a stone because I’m a ghoul!” Photos taken, we rejoined the others patiently waiting for me and my weird obsession.

The next two stops were for waterfalls: Undine Falls on Lava Creek and Wraith Falls on Lupine Creek. Undine was visible from the turn-out but Wraith was an easy ½ mile hike.  It felt good to get out and walk a little. It wasn’t long after leaving the falls that we spotted a group of cars pulled over to the roadside. That means a wildlife sighting! We pulled over too, and found all the excitement was for a black bear. He was in a grassy meadow, just strolling around and enjoying his day. Everyone got to see him play, and we were all grinning as we piled back in the van. Two bear sightings in two days! How great is that!

Petrified Tree was a must-see on our list. Grandma Alice Belshause visited Yellowstone in 1932, and took a picture of this fossilized tree. We stood in the same place as Grandma had, and took the same photo she took so many years ago. We all agreed Grandma would have loved to make a return trip here with all of us, and we would love to still have her with us to do it. Miss you, Grandma!

We had another of our picnic lunches near Roosevelt Lodge, a rustic log lodge built in 1920 and named for the president who did so much for the cause of conservation and national parks. Another waterfall was next on the agenda, and we planned to hike down to the base of the Tower Falls. However, erosion had damaged the path and it was closed, so we had to settle for the view at the top. It was spectacular anyway, and with the free time we did a little shopping in the gift shop.

Headed to Dunraven Pass there was another traffic jam. Guess what? Another black bear! This one was sleeping next to a pine tree, oblivious to the commotion she was causing. The rangers shooed everyone along, and we continued our drive up and over Dunraven Pass. At 8,859 feet, there was still snow and the air was windy and cold. We saw some major fire damage from the fires of 1988, and some beautiful alpine wildflowers showing off their spring colors. Our last stop was the Washburn Hot Springs Overlook, where you could see the thermal area off in the distance. There are no trails to Washburn Hot Springs. The ground there is very unstable – geologists have fallen through the crust and suffered serious burns. Sulfuric acid in the area can burn through clothing. But there is a spectacular view of two mountain ranges, including the Tetons which we will visit later in this trip.

It was time to head home for a dinner of brats, macaroni and cheese, and baked beans. Sierra and Dane played mini golf while dinner cooked, and as soon as we were finished most of us suited up for a soak in the Boiling River. On the short drive there we spotted some mountain goats high up on a slope above the road. Stop, look, take photos, move on. We ended our day in the rushing Gardner River, where underground discharge from Mammoth Hot Springs enters the river. The mix of cold snowmelt and hot spring water creates a tiny area where it is possible – and allowed – to sit in the warm water. The river runs fast and cold, and the rushing hot water is scalding, so you must find just the right place where the mix is comfortable. You have to keep rotating and moving around, warming or cooling your back or front as needed. Just a few inches too far one way and you’re scorching – or freezing! The strong current threatens to pull you downstream, and boulders and rocks provide very unstable footing. Still, it was the high point of our day. Totally awesome!

Yellowstone is one of my happy places. It’s so good to be here!