Since Yellowstone is such a seismically active location, we had all been wondering how many earthquakes had occurred during our visit. I looked it up on the US Geological Survey last night, and it turns out that in the three days we’ve been here there have been 15 earthquakes, registering between 0.27 and 1.49 on the Richter Scale. There are earthquakes here every single day – mostly small ones – but the possibility always exists that something larger could occur. Hopefully not while we’re here!
Firehole Canyon Drive is a one-way road that loops next to the Firehole River for a couple miles, passing along 800-foot high lava cliffs. The road climbs along the canyon wall past the Firehole Falls. The rushing water churned around and over massive boulders in this classic trout stream. It was a spectacular way to start the morning.
I had a special request to stop at the Nez Perce picnic area on Fountain Flat Drive, near where Nez Perce Creek enters the Firehole River. I wanted to find a grave I had read about, and as soon as we pulled in Sierra immediately spotted it. It is the grave of Mattie Culver, a winterkeeper’s wife who died in the winter of 1889. A heavy fence protects the little white marble stone, and there are silk flowers decorating the grave. When I get home, I plan to find out some more about Mattie if possible, and why she is buried all alone in this picturesque spot.
A little further along Fountain Flat Drive, we had the remarkable luck to be in the right place at the right time. A herd of buffalo, about 90 cows, calves and bulls, was crossing the road. We parked right where they crossed, and watched the whole amazing spectacle. We stood quietly as they passed just feet from where we stood. The calves made little grunts as they trotted next to their mothers. The herd entered the river and had a drink, then moved en masse into the meadow on the other side. The pictures and videos we took will never be able to capture the incredible feeling we had to witness this at such close range. This was truly a once-in-a-lifetime event! Lucky us!More Yellowstone wonders awaited us at Fountain Paints Pots. A short hike led us past steaming hot pools, geysers, and mud pots – pools of hot clay blooping and spitting. Dane particularly likes mud pots, and he took some video of the action. The weather is perfect again today, making our hike through this little thermal area quite pleasurable. A little further along the way, along Firehole Lake Drive, we passed two lakes with hot water shooting up from their bottoms. Great Fountain Geyser, which I was fortunate enough to see erupt when I was here last on my geology trip, was quiet so we passed by. I can’t get enough of these thermal features, each one a little different from the last, and all made possible by geological forces too immense to comprehend. But we have seen enough for one trip, so we passed by Biscuit Basin and Midway Geyser Basin without stopping. Next time!
As we headed south, I continued to read highlights from my Yellowstone road guide about the features we were passing to my captive audience. The learned about the biggest stagecoach robbery of the 20th century - $2,000 – that occurred near Scaup Lake. How DeLacey Creek was named for a prospector who passed this way in 1863. How an old wagon road near Shoshone Point was the location of a robbery of fifteen stagecoaches by one man, who spent five years in Leavenworth for his crime. I love these little historical tidbits, and I think my fellow travelers do too. At least they haven’t thrown my book away and told me to shut up yet!
We crossed the Continental Divide at 8,262 feet and found little Isa Lake, full of lilypads and leeches, and a salamander. We crossed again at 8,391 feet and found a traveling gnome that we picked up to transport to a new location. A short stop at West Thumb visitor center was necessary so we could get our passports stamped, and in the bookstore there Gin found a book I couldn’t live without, “Yellowstone Resources and Issues Handbook.” Our last stop in Yellowstone was when we crossed the divide yet a third time at 7,988 feet, and left the gnome to wait for his next adventure.
As we passed Lewis Lake close to the park’s south entrance, we came upon an accident scene where a pickup truck had almost gone into the lake. Only the thick stand of pines kept it from going down the steep bank into the water. At 1:30, we exited Yellowstone for the last time. The last time this trip, that is! I’ll be back!
Our campground was right outside the park, so we checked in. The cabins looked quite new, and it took a moment for us to comprehend that there was no power. No light, no outlets, no way to charge our phones or cameras or I-Pods or computers! The stunned looks slowly gave way to acceptance as we realized we would have to rough it for a couple days. We also have no cell phone service or Internet. This is primitive! I wonder if we’ll survive?
After a quick lunch, we headed off for a swim. We asked about the hot spring that was supposed to be near here, and the boys behind the help desk gave us some vague directions. We set off and ended up at Polecat Creek. We couldn’t find the hot springs from the directions we had received, so just gave up and sat on the rocky creek bottom in the sunshine. Since that didn’t work out so well, we got back in the van and headed south to find a grocery store. Along the way, we passed Jackson Lake and it looked so inviting we went in for a swim. Though a little brisk, it felt good and we swam and played in the water with the snow-capped Tetons as our backdrop. Much better than Polecat Creek!After picking up a few groceries, we made a dinner of ham and potato soup with cheesy bread. We can’t leave anything outdoors because this is bear country, so we cleaned up well and used the last of the daylight to look at brochures to plan our adventures for the next few days. On a lawn chair with my laptop, this blog was written in the bathroom where I had power. Where there’s a will, there’s a way! Goodnight!
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